Part-time traveller, Full-Time Brummie

Glamping: Living Like Shepherds at Hesleyside Huts, Northumberland

A September break in a shepherds hut in Northumberland

Bloggers give the best recommendations. And when the lovely Rachael Stray wrote about her stay at Hesleyside Huts at exactly the time I was searching for “glamping in Northumberland” it seemed daft not to take heed of a fellow blogger’s suggestion.

Tempted as I was by two storey huts and private verandahs and copper baths, Bracken was the only hut available for our planned September break post-birthday celebrations (getting through a whole year of being 40). And as this was also the hut that Rachael has stayed in I knew we were in for something special.

Shepherds hut in Northumberland, converted into cosy accommodation

A handmade doorsign on a shepherds hut

Bracken is one of five shepherds huts on offer in the grounds of the beautiful Hesleyside Hall. We drove down the tree-lined avenue after a rain-lashed journey up the M6 from Birmingham; Bracken and sister hut Heather are located together beyond an iron gate at the end of the driveway (watch out for the gate – it can be quite lively and gave me quite the bruised finger). A cute touch is the wheelbarrow for taking your belongings from the parking area to your hut – Mr Fletche refused my plea to transport me across the wet grass in this manner.

Bracken is tardis-like in that it is surprisingly spacious once you step inside. There is an elevated king size bed (with a super-comfy mattress and quilt) which did cause some concern on the first night as to how many limbs we’d break if the outside sleeper rolled off. There’s a monks bench with storage underneath, and a handy table tucked into the base of the bed, all made using reclaimed timber from Hesleyside Hall itself. There’s a small kitchen area with belfast sink, plenty of crockery and cutlery supplied, a shower room with power shower and – our old nemesis from Wildernest – a wood burner. There are ample fire lighters, kindling and logs supplied, but remembering our previous attempts at fire making we fully expect to have to replenish our supplies on Day Two.

Cabin bed inside a shepherds hut with hot water bottle
View from a shephers hut window on a crisp autumn morning, accompanied by a cup of tea and the little book of hygge

It’s the little touches that matter. A hot water bottle. A selection of Penguin classics. Marshmallows for toasting and a jar of sweeties. Cards and dominoes. A box for locking away your phone if you want to do the digital detox thing properly (I failed). And they even provided us with a bottle of water and a bottle of wine as an apology for an inconsistent water supply on our first evening, unnecessary but appreciated.

Wooden phone box to lock away your mobile phone during your stay

It’s a short drive to the nearest town of Bellingham where there is a Co-op open til 10pm as well as a butchers and a bakers if you want to pick up supplies. There’s also three pubs, including the Cheviot Hotel where we ate on our final night. For a fab Full English, I highly recommend the Fountain Cafe. There’s no fridge in the hut – this is camping after all, albeit of a more glamorous kind – so be mindful of that when buying groceries. If you plan on cooking using the wood burning stove, choose foods that don’t require much heating through…we “enjoyed” lukewarm soup on night 1 and lukewarm beans (spaghetti hoops for Mr Fletche) with slightly toasted bread on night 2. We’re city folk. Don’t judge us for our terrible lack of survival skills. We didn’t even attempt a campfire.

Things to see and do in Northumberland

There is so much to do in the Northumberland county that at least another week or two in the area would be required to cover everything. We barely scratched the surface with just two full days. So these are our recommendations for a whistle-stop tour only…

The Northumberland coast

There’s more than 30 miles of coastline to discover in Northumberland. It’s a bit of a drive from Hesleyside Huts, but it’s definitely a trip worth making. From Holy Island in the North, down to Bamburgh with its imposing castle overlooking a stunning white sand beach. From Seahouses – the gateway to the Farne Islands – to Beadnell with its sweeping bay. Spending a day at the seaside is a wonderful way to blow away the cobwebs

Sand dunes at Bamburgh beach, Northumberland
Beadnell Beach in the golden hour

There are so many reasons to pop by this historic market town. One of them of course is that castle which has a rich history of its own even without being linked with that wizard. We chose not to give the castle a visit this time (as much as I was dying to get a broomstick training lesson) but it’s definitely on the list for next time. As is Alnwick Garden which must be absolutely spectacular in the spring and summertime.

I have to confess that my main reason for our brief stop in Alnwick was to visit Barter Books. Housed in a beautiful old Victorian railway station, this second hand bookshop is a bookworm’s dream. There are cosy nooks and a roaring fireplace where you can settle down with a cup of tea and a book. There’s a labyrinth of shelves delving into every subject possible, poetry and quotations decorating the walls and ceilings. Oh, and a model railway running above your head. It’s dog-friendly, there’s a vintage railway station type cafe and the owners are responsible for the resurgence of the “Keep Calm and Carry On” poster. And although you can buy books here, bartering by exchanging your own books is positively encouraged – hence the name.

Alnwich Castle - also known as Hogwarts - in beautiful countryside surroundings
Barter Books, second hand bookshop in Alnwick, Northumberland
Stargazing in Northumberland National Park

Northumberland National Park has been designated a Dark Sky Park. It’s officially the best place in England for stargazing, and is Europe’s largest protected area of night sky. On a clear night, you can see million of stars, the Milky Way and even the Andromeda Galaxy, all with the naked eye. At Hesleyside Huts, you have access to binoculars and a telescope, so you can play at being Patrick Moore/Professor Brian Cox to your heart’s content. And if you prefer a bit of expert guidance, the Kielder Observatory is only a 20 minute drive away. You can book the opportunity to learn from experienced astronomers; events tend to book up well in advance though so plan your trip carefully.

Did we get to stargaze? Unfortunately the skies were a little cloudy during our stay. Even so we could see more stars than we’d ever seen before in this country. There was also something twinkling which could have been a shooting star. Or it could have just been a speck of dust on my glasses…

Hadrian’s Wall

No visit to Northumberland is complete without a trip to Hadrian’s Wall. You can visit one of the Roman sites such as Vindolanda, Housesteads or Chesters Fort. Or hike a section of the 84- mile footpath, following this historic landmark along ridges and crags. We chose the 7.5 mile circular walk from The Sill National Landscape Discovery Centre towards Housesteads. It’s a spectacular section of the wall to walk, with a few inclines but not too tough to follow. Star attraction is “Tree of the Year 2016” at Sycamore Gap  (wonder who won in 2017? Please enlighten me in the comments if you know!)

Sycamore Gap, famous tree at Hadrians Wall in Northumberland
Female hiker - A Brummie Home and Abroad - at Hadrians Wall

There’s so much that we didn’t get to do in Northumberland, but the area definitely won our hearts. We’re already wondering when we can fit our next trip in. 2018 has definitely been the year of quirky accommodation! I’d highly recommend Hesleyside Huts to anyone who wants to try rustic living without quite letting go of the luxurious touches…

Hesleyside Huts: THE DETAILS…


Address: Hesleyside Huts, Bellingham, Hexham, Northumberland, NE48 2LA

Price: Bracken and Heather cost from £95 per night. Bramble costs from £100 per night, Holly from £120 per night and Rowan from £125 per night. 2 night minimum stay applies

Please note that Hesleyside Huts cannot accommodate dogs


5 responses to “Glamping: Living Like Shepherds at Hesleyside Huts, Northumberland”

  1. rachaelstray says:

    I’m so glad you guys enjoyed your stay! We want to go back to Hesleyside and stay in another hut as we loved it so much. You’re so right heading to the Northumberland stunning coast is definitely worth it. Thank you for sharing a link to my post as well 🙂

    Rachael |

  2. Glad to hear you had an adventure Em. Hadrian’s wall is fun to find and, the history behind it is extraordinary.

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

%d bloggers like this: