A Flying Visit through Puglia’s Valle D’Itria

The Valle D’Itria is a stunning area of Puglia, its verdant countryside dotted with the iconic trulli found almost exclusively in this area. Winding lanes lead through orchards and olive groves, from one pretty village to the next. We took the opportunity on accommodation changeover day to travel between Ostuni and Alberobello through this beautiful countryside, leaving the coast behind and switching the turquoise waters of the Adriatic for the rural Itrian Valley.

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Cisternino

Life seems to be at a slower pace in Cisternino. There are more locals than tourists. There are historic churches, elegant piazza, whitewashed buildings with beautifully decorated facades, shady narrow alleys. Poetry is everywhere, on walls, on steps and on wooden swings suspended high above the streets. Houses lean against each other, connected by arches and stairways. It’s no wonder that Cisternino is listed as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.

Any exploration of Cisternino should start at the Piazza Garibaldi. Panoramic views can be found from the hilltop belvedere behind the Villa Comunale. See if you can count the conical roofs of trulli studding the rolling hills of the Valle d’Itria. The charm of Cisternino is truly found through wandering between the buildings in the historical centre. We soon find ourselves at the heart of the town – Piazza Vittoria Emanuele II – ready for a coffee and a bocconotto, a sweet shortcrust pastry filled with custard and cherry.

Car Parking: We parked in the large free car park Parcheggio comunale on Via Martina Franca. It is a slight uphill 10 minute walk to the historical centre. You can also find on street parking along Via Manzoni, Via Pozzo la Serra and Via San Quirico.

Cisternino through the lens of Mr Fletche

Martina Franca

This quaint hilltop town is known for its baroque style buildings and narrow cobbled streets. It’s actually the largest town in the Valle D’Itria, yet remains refreshingly authentic and free from tourist traps. Greek-style architecture nestles next to the baroque. Splashes of vibrant colour pop against whitewashed buildings, from brightly painted doors to fluttering laundry. We turn a corner to be greeted by a rainbow of vintage lampshades. Around another corner, the sandy-coloured façade of the Basilica di San Martino, glowing in the warmth of the afternoon sun.

The historic centre of Martina Franca is packed with beautiful piazzas, perfect for an aperitivo and a spot of lunch. We perch on high stools on via Giuseppe Garibaldi and watch the world go by, Aperol Spritz and bruschetta topped with local cured meat capocollo in hand.

Car Parking: We parked at Parcheggio Viale Europa, just a five minute walk from the centre of Martina Franca. We found the Easy Park app to be extremely easy to use for all of our parking needs. It even refunds any unused parking time! Parking was very cheap, around about a euro per hour.

Martina Franca through the lens of Mr Fletche

Locorotondo

Even prettier than Cisternino – if that’s possible – is Locorotondo. Pink geraniums spill from window-boxes, lovingly tended by residents. Boutique stores crammed with colourful local ceramics. This circular town surrounded by city walls – Locorotondo literally means “Round Place” – has been named one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Perched atop a steep hill, the small town offers sweeping views of the vineyards, olive groves and trulli below from the Villa Comunale viewpoint. We weave through a labyrinth of whitewashed buildings and crumbling facades to Locorotondo’s lungomare (via Nardelli) – confusingly nowhere by the sea.

There are no notable attractions to visit here, but that doesn’t mean you can’t wile away an hour or two aimlessly wandering. The town is famous for it’s white wine – Bianco Lorotondo DOC – but we stick to a coffee at Vinifera on Piazza Vittorio Emanuelle II

We parked at the “Pacheggio Cimiterio” on via Enrico Fermi, a large free parking lot with a pretty shaded walkway connecting it with via Cisternino, just outside the historical centre. We visited on market day, with plenty of fresh produce and local crafts on offer. There is also free parking at Piazza Antonio Mitrano, just steps away from the centro storico

Locorotondo through the lens of Mr Fletche

Alberobello

Alberobello is undoubtedly the most famous town in the Itrian Valley. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, known for its cluster of trulli. It is enchantingly picturesque and you feel like you’re walking through a fairytale town. The Monti neighbourhood is vibrant, with trulli converted into bars, restaurants and a myriad of souvenir shops. Aia Piccola is a little quieter, a little more authentic. We stayed in a trullo on the outskirts of the town for two nights and you can read more about our stay, including parking tips here!

Tips for visiting the Valle D’Itria

If you want to find our more about what it’s like to drive in Italy, here are some tips, straight from the driver’s mouth!

Don’t be fooled if the outskirts of these towns don’t seem very picturesque. These are communities where people live, work, shop, and raise families; they are not there purely to serve the tourists. This is modern Puglia. But enter the historical centre (centro storico) and you’ll feel like you’re a world away from the hustle and bustle of the traffic outside.

The afternoon nap – la pausa – is taken very seriously and is something to be aware of if you’re visiting between 2:30 and 6pm. Around the busiest areas and main squares, there will still be a few cafes, restaurants and shops open. Others bring their wares inside and close the shutters. But those beautiful views remain open 24/7.

It’s just over an hour’s drive to Locorotondo from Bari Airport. Public transport is quite limited with buses running an infrequent timetable, a car really is the best way to make the most of a day trip to the Valle D’Itria. If you prefer a guided tour, there are plenty of options available with Get Your Guide!

Compared to their busier Puglian neighbours, the towns of Valle d’Itria seem to be a well-kept secret. They are perfect for visiting as part of a road trip through Puglia, and each are small enough to visit for just a few hours. Out of the three towns, Mr Fletche and I fell in love with Martina Franca with it’s vibrant central square, and we would certainly consider making this a base if (or when) we return to Puglia.

All photos by Mr Fletche used with his permission