Eating and Drinking around Edinburgh

All the best trip research starts with a long list of places of eat and drink, and our recent Edinburgh minibreak was no different. Sadly we didn’t make everywhere on my list. We would have needed a lot more time than two and a half days. So here are my Top 10 recommendations – in no particular order – for eating and drinking around Edinburgh.

Keller Taproom

Located just off Broughton Street, we would never have accidentally stumbled on the Keller so I’d definitely call this a hidden gem. Dark and cosy, with quirky furniture touches like beer barrel chairs and festooned with hop vines, The Keller has a laid-back vibe. So much so that we both started and ended our Edinburgh trip with drinks here. There’s a fantastic array of Scottish and German beers, and an in-house plant shop (for all those times that you suddenly remember you need to buy a plant whilst having a pint). They even have a weekly pub quiz, and regularly collaborate with local creators and crafters. My tipples of choice were the Stewart Brewing’s Castaway (a 5% apricot and passionfruit pale ale) and the Fierce Hazy IPA (also 5%).

The Keller, 23-27 Broughton Street Lane, Edinburgh EH1 3LY https://www.kellertaproom.com/

Bonnie & Wild

A shopping centre food court may not seem like the obvious pick for an Edinburgh foodie recommendation but as with The Keller, Bonnie & Wild was so good that we ended eating there twice, from different vendors. On the first evening, we both chose Cantonese dishes from Salt & Chilli; on our second visit we shared fish tacos and fries from Creel Caught. Located on the fourth floor of St James Quarter, there’s a bar, 8 food stalls, a patisserie and a bottle shop. You’re seated by a host, then you purchase your food from the individual kitchen. A buzzer lets you know when you can collect your freshly cooked scran. Drinks can be purchased via an app or directly from the bar. It’s a great choice if every member of your party fancies something different to eat!

Bonnie & Wild, St James Quarter (Fourth Floor), 415-417 St James Crescent, Edinburgh EH1 3AE https://bonnieandwildmarket.com/

The Bow Bar

This was a bar that cropped up on most lists when it came to best drinking establishments in the Old Town, both for its craft beer and whisky selection. Indeed, they stock around 400 whiskies – if you’re a little intimidated by the menu, they’ll help you decide which one may suit you. It’s a “proper” pub, with old fashioned advertisements on the wall and a traditional dark wood bar. There’s not many tables so bear than in mind and choose your visiting times wisely – we managed to get the last available table on a rainy Monday evening. After making an interesting beer choice in the Lost in Leith Barrel Aged Brew (a shocking 8%), we made our whisky choice easier by selecting from the “Malt of the Moment” display. I opted for the Glenlivet from Speyside, which warmed my throat nicely.

The Bow Bar, 80 West Bow, Edinburgh EH1 2HH https://www.thebowbar.co.uk/

Söderberg Bakery

In a change from recommending beer and whisky establishments, Söderberg is a small Swedish cafe business with 7 branches around Edinburgh (and one in London). We enjoyed a coffee in their Stockbridge location, handy for the Water of Leith Walkway. Still full from our hotel breakfast we couldn’t be tempted by the incredible pastry display, but I wish we’d bought one of their legendary cinnamon or cardamom buns to munch on later. Big glass windows looked onto the bustling high street, a great spot for people-watching.

Söderberg Bakery, various locations https://www.soderberg.uk/

Cold Town House

Located on Grassmarket, the flagship venue of Cold Town brewery is spread over three floors. A colourful spray of blooms cascade down its façade, and Edinburgh Castle provides a dramatic backdrop. The apres-ski themed rooftop terrace is the big draw – largely open to the elements, it is of course weather-dependent. We managed to get a sneaky peak at the terrace with it’s cable car seating and spectacular castle views but service was limited to the ground floor brewhouse. Beer is brewed onsite; I enjoyed a pint of their 5.5% NEIPA. There’s also an extensive food menu; we shared the brisket loaded fries to soak up the alcohol.

Cold Town House, 4 Grassmarket, Edinburgh EH1 2JU https://coldtownhouse.co.uk/

The Dome

Once a bank, this beautiful building with its striking pillared frontage is now an award-winning bar and restaurant. The Grill Room serves cocktails and a classic a la carte menu within a stunning setting, all under the glass dome which gives the venue it’s name. It’s fancy, but without being too fancy – if you know what I mean. It’s the perfect place for a romantic dinner date, a special celebration, a catch-up with friends or afternoon tea. We had wonderful food and amazing service, including birthday greetings for Mr Fletche on arrival and a dessert served resplendent with candle. Highly recommended for a fancy – but not too fancy – experience. Oh, and look out for the ice-cubes, shaped like the exterior of the building.

(A little tip if you’re planning an expensive meal; spread the cost by purchasing a gift card or two ahead of time. We’re definitely going to start doing this so we can treat ourselves to special restaurants without having to lay out the money in one go! Who knew you’d also get financial advice in this blog post?)

14 George Street, Edinburgh EH2 2PF https://www.thedomeedinburgh.com/grillroom

Hoot The Redeemer

Nestled between an Oliver Bonas and a Bella Italia is a faded doorway which leads you beneath Hanover Street to a quirky cocktail bar with a vintage funfair twist. Beyond the fortune teller gatekeeper lies a claw crane machine which dictates the flavours of your cocktail, and an ice machine for boozy brain-freezing beverages. We ordered cocktails from the menu, although I didn’t make a note of it’s name* or what was in it. Other than tequila. Which may account for my lack of note-taking by that point.

*You Dancin’? That was the name…

Hoot The Redeemer, 7 Hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 2DL http://hoottheredeemer.com/

Hideout Café

The second coffee place to make the list, this tiny café tucked away off the Royal Mile gave us all the nostalgia vibes with it’s retro posters and cassette tape decor. I could have spent hours browsing their collection, spotting old favourites from my own tape-collecting past. Great coffee too; the perfect place to “press pause” on sightseeing for a little while!

Hideout Café, 5 Upper Bow, Edinburgh EH1 2JN https://www.hideoutcafe.co.uk/

Teuchters Landing

Teuchters Landing is a cosy and welcoming pub located on the Shore at Leith. There’s a traditional bar area out the front, a little snug beyond, and a conservatory and waterside terrace out the back. Although renowned for it’s whisky selection, I settled for half a Stewart Brewing Edinburgh Gold (4.8%) – there would be plenty of whisky to come at the Scotch Whisky Experience later that afternoon. We decided to stay for a “light” lunch – let’s just say that their portions set us up nicely for the rest of the day. The table next to us had two main meals which we would have definitely struggled to get through. Teuchters Landing also has a sister outpost in Edinburgh’s West End.

Teuchters Landing, 1c Dock Place, Leith EH6 6LU https://www.teuchtersbar.co.uk/leith

The Hanging Bat

When I asked for craft beer recommendations prior to my trip, The Hanging Bat was first on everyone’s list. And it’s worth the 15 minute walk from Grassmarket, past all the strip clubs and lap dancing joints to this spot on the busy Lothian Road. It’s not far from the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art if you fancy doubling up your beer with culture. It’s a beer lovers dream, with an extensive choice of cask, keg and bottled beers from Scotland and beyond. With the rain lashing down outside – and my newly purchased (tartan) umbrella already broken – we had a couple of schooners in here; I had the 4.5% There Will Be No Intervals pale ale from Verdant, and the delectable Peach Melba Sour from Pilot (4.3%).

The Hanging Bat, 133 Lothian Road, Edinburgh EH3 9AB https://www.thehangingbat.com/

On the radar for future visits…

So many places we didn’t get to… Roseleaf Bar Cafe, The Devil’s Advocate (we tried but they were fully booked), Panda & Sons, Salthorse, Lost in Leith, Fierce, Holyrood 9a, Bramble, The Palmerston.

Enough to spend another trip eating and drinking around Edinburgh I think?

Want to read about our visit to the Scotch Whisky Experience? Then click here!