Things to Do With Grown-Up Parents in London
AKA: Ma & Pa Lee Discover London
Search Google for “family-friendly London” and you get a whole bunch of blog posts and articles about things to do with kids in London. But what do you do with parents in London? In particular, two rowdy 68 year olds who’ve only made a fleeting coach trip to the capital before. Rowdy 68 year olds celebrating their golden wedding anniversary no less? Mr Fletche and I ripped up our usual “quirky things that non-tourists do in London” list in favour of hitting the tourist hotspots. Rowdy 68 years old in tow.
Getting to London
We travel from Birmingham New Street to London Euston by train, praying that our journey won’t be hit by train strikes, cancellations or any of the other myriad problems that can strike UK railways. Mr Fletche and I have previously spent entire journeys standing up so we arrive for our departing train nice and early so we can grab seats for all four of us. Pa Lee is wearing a backpack; this leads to me christening him Dora the Explorer for the next two days.
We arrive at Euston. Next stop, the London Underground. Mr Fletche and I each take a parent under our wing. That way, if we do get separated then Ma and Pa Lee each has a responsible adult with them. This (mostly) works. Apart from that time when Pa Lee is being called in two separate directions by Mr Fletche and Ma Lee, and almost finds himself stranded at Waterloo. It’s a narrow escape, but all four of us make it on the tube.
Where we stayed: Travelodge, Central Southwark
When we started planning this anniversary trip, I looked at fancy-schmancy hotels. The type with a doorman that tips his hat and calls you sir and madame. The type with fluffy robes and toiletries that aren’t permanently fixed to the wall. But this trip was all about showing Ma and Pa Lee the London we love, as well as revisiting all those tourist sites we haven’t seen in years. Not about time spent in a fancy-schmancy hotel with a doorman and fluffy robes.
So we ended up at a Travelodge. As we all know, even in London, a Travelodge is not cheap, although it was definitely a budget option compared to others. But it meant more money to spend on food, drink and experiences. On making memories for a very special trip. Ma and Pa Lee may not remember the hotel, but they will certainly remember the quality time we spent together as a family.
And staying in Southwark meant a handy base south of the river, equidistant from London Bridge and Waterloo. Southwark is on the Jubilee Line which took us everywhere we wanted to go, with only one change required to get us to and from Euston. I was today years old when I found out that Southwark is actually pronounced “Suh-thuk”. And not “South-Walk”.
https://www.travelodge.co.uk/hotels/342/London-Central-Southwark-hotel
Day 1: Tower Bridge/Superbloom at the Tower of London
After a quick emptying of the suitcase, it’s time to show Ma and Pa Lee their first glimpse of the big city sights. Admittedly, the first big city sight we show them is the Bridge Tap on Borough High Street. It’s thirsty work, looking after parents in London. We point out the Shard, although it’s hard to miss the big pointy building in the sky. At the moment, Ma and Pa Lee are unaware that this will be the location of their anniversary afternoon tea. We wind our way along the back streets (a typically undulating Fletcher route), getting tantalisingly close to one end of the Bermondsey Beer Mile.
And suddenly the iconic Tower Bridge is ahead of us. I almost don’t notice the bridge starting to lift, momentarily blocking our way ahead. I confidently state that the bridge hardly opens these days; after all, there are few tall vessels traversing the Thames. The bridge makes me out to be a liar, opening three times (at least) during our first evening. I pretend I have organised this for Ma and Pa Lee’s anniversary.
Our first official stop is Superbloom at the Tower of London. Created to celebrate the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee – and not Ma and Pa Lee’s anniversary – 20 million wildflower seeds have been planted to create a colourful and biodiverse habitat. There are plenty of bees buzzing around, giving Mr Fletche the opportunity to educate Ma and Pa Lee on bee species. Bee-cies, if you will.
It’s pleasantly quiet. We didn’t book a grown-ups only session, but at least this means we don’t have to fight off pesky kids to get to the top of the slide. Oh yes. The slide. This is too good an opportunity to pass up. Ma and Pa Lee are given our bags and phones; Mr Fletche and I grab a hessian sack and we climb to the top of the slide, where we are given rigorous instructions on how to slide. Someone is screaming hysterically. Turns out that someone may have been me.
A Thames River Cruise
I’ve untucked my dress from my undies and it’s time to head to Tower Pier for our next Parents in London friendly activity. An evening river cruise along the Thames, courtesy of City Cruises. I hesitate at the pier – where are we going? – which gives the opportunity for a tour group of about 100 people to slip into the queue before us. I think we’re going to need a bigger boat.
Rest assured, the Gamma is big enough for all of us, and then some. A glass of bubbly is thrust into our hand and we settle down on the top deck. A light breeze whips the hair around our faces. Apart from Pa Lee, who doesn’t have enough hair to whip. Entertainment is provided by vocalist and guitarist Will Tierney, who breaks out the singalong classics early doors. We wonder aloud why people on boats insist on waving at people on bridges. Whilst waving at people on bridges. If you can’t beat ’em, then wave like a loon at ’em.
We cruise as far as the Palace of Westminster, pointing out iconic buildings as we pass. Canapes are being handed out like sweeties. On the return leg, the breeze has picked up and it’s getting decidedly chilly. We pass under Tower Bridge, and the captain swings round for us to get a good view of the bridge which is opening once more. With enough time before a ship with an unnecessarily tall mast comes through, we swoop underneath the rising bascules. Once again, I pretend I have organised this for Ma and Pa Lee’s anniversary.
We head to the relative warmth of the lower deck for the final part of the cruise, to Canary Wharf and back. Whisper it quietly, but there’s not much exciting stuff to see between Tower Bridge and the skyscrapers of Canary Wharf. The cruise could have cut the final 30 minutes from the duration and not lost anything – all the good sights are in the first hour. We send Pa Lee and Mr Fletche to the bar for refreshments, but the queue is moving at a snail’s pace so we decide to wait until we’re back on dry land.
The canapes haven’t really provided us with a full and nutritious meal, so we head to the nearby St Katharine Docks, and the flower-festooned Dickens Inn. There is no evidence that Charles Dickens frequented this hostelry. Probably because it would have most likely have been a tea warehouse in his day. With it’s slanting floors and flickering lights, it’s certainly atmospheric, and a good choice for upmarket pub grub. We finish the evening with a stroll along the South Bank, capturing the illuminated bridges and buildings along the Thames.
Day 2: Buckingham Palace and Westminster
Happy Golden Wedding Anniversary to Ma and Pa Lee! Cards are exchanged, Ma Lee gets misty-eyed and we break news of the afternoon tea location over a coffee and several pastries at Origin Coffee on Scoresby Street. Pa Lee pretends he wanted to go to The Shard all along. I point out that with an original long list of about 30 venues I wish he’d told me that in the first place as it would have saved me many an Excel spreadsheet and many headaches.
Ma Lee’s only request for this trip was to see Buckingham Palace. So we spend the morning winding our way along Victoria Embankment, through Whitehall Gardens and on to Horse Guards Parade. I missed my chance to shout obscenities at the gates of Downing Street, but they’ve all gone off on their hols anyway. Plus it might not have been the most appropriate “parents in London” activity.
As we meander through St James’s Park we can hear the low thudding of a drum. It’s almost 11am, which means it’s time for Changing of the Guard. There are horses, there are drums and there are lots of furry hats. We can’t see much from our vantage point, but we can certainly hear the stirring band. Like Will Tierney the night before, they are pulling out all the stops with crowd-pleasing bangers. Never thought we’d be bopping along to Livin’ On A Prayer by a regimental band on a Friday morning.
We wind our way to Westminster. Via the Westminster Arms for a swift drink as the sun is indeed past the yardarm. We pass the Abbey, and wave at Millicent and Winston on Parliament Square before jumping on the tube back across the river. It’s almost time for tea.
A Fancy Afternoon Tea
One of the best things you can do with grown-up parents in London is an afternoon tea. Who doesn’t like tiny little crustless sandwiches, piping hot beverages and enough sugar to put you in a coma? Our bags are scanned as we enter The Shard and Ma Lee inevitably sets off the beepers with her robo-knee. She’s not considered a terrorist risk so we’re allowed to ascend to the 32nd floor in a super-fast lift which leaves your stomach on the ground floor.
There will be a full blog post coming soon on the Peter Pan themed afternoon tea at Aqua Shard, but – SPOILER ALERT – there are tiny little crustless sandwiches, piping hot beverages and enough sugar to put you in a coma. There are also toilets with a wonderful view over London, although Ma Lee was not a fan of the low lighting outside or the wall of mirrors inside. I agree about the mirrors. No-one needs a fully mirrored toilet cubicle. Especially not when you’re wearing a jumpsuit and have to be near-naked in order to pee. And you’ve just consumed your body weight in scones and cakes.
London Eye
It’s a five minute tube ride from London Bridge to Waterloo. Except the tube is not moving from the platform. So we ascend once more for a pacey stroll to our appointment at the London Eye. Mindful of the advice to arrive well before the “flight” time, we join a snaking queue and shuffle along for 45 minutes. Much like catching an actual flight.
Mr Fletche and I have taken a spin on the London Eye before but we recognise how much the skyline has changed in the past ten years. They still haven’t put the top on The Shard yet. Ma Lee is just glad of a sit-down for half an hour.
Strolling the South Bank
All of the organised fun is over. No more rushing around London to meet reservations or bookings. We have the evening “at leisure”. Which naturally means a drink or two. We had spotted an outside bar from the heady heights of the London Eye so we head for the red umbrellas and trees strewn with fairy lights. This is “Between The Bridges“, a summer riverside venue between Westminster and Waterloo Bridges. Hence the name. We decline the chance to buy tickets for the 90s Hip-Hop Party. With Ma and Pa Lee on board, it would be more likely to be a Hip-Pop party.
After only eating things made of sugar we decide more substantial food is required. Mr Fletche and I had previously dined at a casual Italian restaurant at Gabriel’s Wharf, but this is no more, taken over by a carnival themed “beach bar”. So we retrace our steps and get food from one of the myriad of street food vendors lining the South Bank. Continuing our riverside stroll, we pass street entertainers, musicians and bubble makers. We leave the river at Blackfriars Bridge and amble back towards our hotel. Via The Mad Hatter. And The Ring.
Day 3: Borough Market
It’s the morning after the busy day before. We’ve walked 17 miles over the past day and a half. There’s still a little energy left in the tank though, and with a midday checkout we have plenty of time for a last few hours of exploring. First, breakfast. We’ve teased Ma and Pa Lee by walking past Borough Market several times so finally it’s time to have a wander round. They don’t fancy oysters for breakfast. Or at any time. But Maria’s Market Cafe provides the perfect venue for a hearty breakfast roll stuffed with sausage and bacon. This will keep us going for the rest of the day.
We have time for one last stroll along the South Bank. Working our way from between London Bridge to Blackfriars, we have now officially walked the entire length in numerous stages, from Tower Bridge to Westminster. The sun is shining; we wish we could stay a little longer, but our homeward train is calling.
It’s been a real treat for Mr Fletche and I to go back to basics, showing London to a couple of wide-eyed and awestruck pensioners. Being able to take hundreds of photos. Dancing through flower meadows. Eating cake for breakfast and lunch. Seeing my parents in London allowed us to see London through fresh eyes. And remind me of all the things I love about our capital city.
Tips for Travelling with (Grown-Up) Parents in London
Plan plenty of sitting down activities. The London Eye and Thames River Cruise were perfect. West End shows are also a good option. As are pubs. Failing that, make use of the many benches, using people-watching as an excuse if you don’t want to be too obvious.
The young, beautiful and ridiculously energetic come out to play on an evening. Early starts and packed days mean there is no shame in being in bed by 10pm. This holds true even when we don’t have parents in tow.
Make dinner reservations and book attractions in advance. The only thing worse than trekking round London with hungry or bored children is trekking around London with hungry or bored parents.
Travel in formation, with a responsible adult at the front and back at all times. Consider a bungee cord or some sort of leash, just in case.
Consider what THEY might like to see. In fact, ask them. If I hadn’t asked, we’d have ended up at The Old Operating Theatre museum. Turns out they’re not as keen on gruesome surgical procedures as I am. (But this is DEFINITELY making the itinerary for our next trip.)
Will they feel comfy in a fancy restaurant? Do they prefer pub grub to fine dining? And how about drinking – pricey rooftop cocktails or a (slightly less pricey) pint? Only splash the cash if you know it’s going to be an experience they will enjoy.
Know some stuff. Or make it up. Parents in London LOVE to ask questions and expect you to have all the answers. Particularly how tall/how fast/how old something is. Better still, buy them a guide book or set them up with an audio guide.
Point out maps and signposts and useful information. Use the threat of leaving them somewhere to make their own way back in order to hold their attention.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this MASSIVE guide to things to do with grown-up parents in London! Which other UK cities are great for grown-up family breaks?
