Crabbing and Caravans: A September Break on the English Riviera

Spoiler alert. We didn’t do any crabbing. Although Brixham is quite the crabbing hotspot if you’re into that kind of thing. But there was a caravan. A big posh one. With a TV in each bedroom. And a bath. Caravan holidays have gone up a notch since I were a wee lass. Mr Fletche and I gate-crashed Ma and Pa Lee’s September break on the English Riviera. There were no coastguards involved this time round.

The English Riviera: Brixham

Brixham is a lovely traditional fishing village, alive with character and steeped with historic charm. Colourful houses provide a vibrant backdrop to the bustling and busy working harbour. A slight fishy fragrance permeates the air. I recall childhood holidays down on the South Devon coast but this is my first proper visit as an adult.

We walk along Berry Head Road, gazing across the moored boats, the eerie sound of winds whistling over the marina. Adding to the eeriness are the two skeletons, suspended in cages, a gruesome advertisement for the annual Brixham Pirate Festival. I assume they are not real. I’m disappointed to find out the the Brixham Pirate Festival is not held on International Talk Like A Pirate Day (September 19th).

Despite the lashing rain and roaring winds, we enjoy a bracing walk along Brixham Breakwater, stretching out into Tor Bay. Particularly welcome is the hot chocolate at the finish at Breakwater Bistro. We continue our walk along the Quay, checking out the ferry port for sailing schedules. Sadly, due to the inclement weather, the ferries to Torquay and to Dartmouth have been suspended. We’re not getting out of this town by sea any time soon.

It’s brunch time. And donut time. I know just the place where we can get both. Independently-owned, I’ve been salivating over The Curious Kitchen’s Instagram page since we started planning this trip. We were lucky to arrive just as an influx of earlier diners left so we weren’t left waiting in the drizzle for too long. Selecting from the Autumn lunch and brunch menu, our selection of dishes include brisket benny (Mr Fletche), French toast with bacon and maple syrup (Ma Lee), merguez and eggs (Pa Lee), and Brixham crab on sourdough toast for me. There are also plenty of vegetarian, vegan, dairy-free and gluten-free options. Not for us. We eat anything and everything. It’s all washed down with locally brewed Bays beer.

Of course, we leave room for donuts, although we do decide to take them away to demolish later. Their freshly made donuts come in a range of mouth-watering flavours which change monthly. I take charge of the donut order, and also of the very precious package. If my family lose me, they lose the donuts.

It’s still raining. My decision to wear a short denim pinafore dress seems a little optimistic. Particularly as it is now accessorised by a yellow raincoat and woolly hat. We pop in and out of various gift shops. Unsurprisingly, Ma Lee and I are drawn into Inspirations by it’s enticing gin display. I emerge empty-handed; Ma Lee comes out clutching two bottles of the local Deckchair Gin. Luckily, one is for me.

We stop for a drink at the Old Market House pub, overlooking a full-sized replica of Sir Francis Drake’s vessel, the Golden Hind. It’s surprisingly small, compared to the Cutty Sark or the SS Great Britain. Despite a number of visits to Brixham, I don’t remember ever setting foot on the Golden Hind. The rain shows no sign of stopping so we decide to make one last stop at Liberty Brixham for afternoon cocktails. Ma and Pa Lee had already acquainted themselves with both the staff and the cocktail menu the previous day. They are treated like old friends. I’m a fan of the quirky interior, with it’s floral patterned chairs, gilt-edged mirrors and chintzy lampshades. We have to walk a mile back up the hill so we limit ourselves to quaffing just one cocktail each.

On the following evening, we head back down to town; this time for food and drinks at the Prince William. This recently-refurbished gastropub is located right on the harbourside, and serves an extensive menu of local produce and freshly-caught seafood. There was a slight confusion when they had our arrival time wrong on their booking system but this was sorted quickly and we’re seated by the roaring fire. Not a real fire, mind you. A digital one. The food is superbly cooked, and there are four empty plates at the end of the meal.

Exploring The English Riviera: Torquay

Torquay lies about 8.5 mile north of Brixham, and this is where you find the famed palm trees that have become synonymous with the English Riviera moniker. And the marina could give any of it’s French riviera counterparts a run for it’s money on a sunny day.

It’s not sunny when we arrive by bus. In fact, the torrential rain that comes down during our journey makes me tempted to stay on the No 12 all the way to Newton Abbot. But I wrestle with my raincoat and emerge onto the Torquay promenade. The rain subsides to a light drizzle so we take the opportunity to stroll along Princess Parade and along the pier. It is definitely too windy for the English Riviera Wheel. But the rainclouds have finally cleared, and the 100ft high ferris wheel stands tall and skeletal against a lapis blue sky. Raincoat off, sunglasses on.

We continue our stroll, taking in the fabulous yachts and Italian-style villas nestled on the hillside, tumbling down to the palm-lined seafront. Torquay is definitely a jewel in the English Riviera crown. Except – there’s not actually that much to see and do here. Once we’ve wandered along every pier and jetty, it’s time (naturally) to think about food. Looking for a light lunch, we pop into The Lighthouse on Victoria Parade. There’s another one of those digital fireplaces on the wall. They’re all the rage down on the English Riviera. Soup and sandwiches satisfying our hunger, we head off up Parkhill Road for some impressive views down over the marina. The bracing walk up hill works off some of those calories from yesterday’s donuts.

And now, we’ve pretty much seen all that Torquay has to offer. It’s a lovely town to mooch around for a couple of hours, but once you’ve seen one palm tree, you’ve seen ’em all. If you’re spending more time here then you could catch a show at Torquay’s Princess Theatre, follow the clues on the Agatha Christie Mile or go dinosaur-spotting at Torquay’s Dinosaur World. But the town is a great base for exploring further afield, and is handy for Kent’s Cavern, Babbacombe Model Village, Dartmoor National Park, even Exeter and Plymouth if you fancy the lights of the big city.

Exploring The English Riviera: Paignton

Mr Fletche and I didn’t visit Paignton on this occasion. Other than a fleeting stop at the bus station. But Ma and Pa Lee did visit and of course paid a visit to one or two of the local hostelries. Of course.

Paignton is a more traditional seaside resort than it’s neighbours Brixham and Torquay, and is probably much more suited to a family holiday with kids. It has a zoo with over 2,500 animals, a pier which stretches into the sea, sandy beaches and plenty of seaside attractions such as amusement arcades and crazy golf. And you get great views of the steam trains running along the Dartmouth Steam Railway to Kingswear.

Travelling around the English Riviera by bus

The English Riviera is on the South Devon coast and is made up of beautiful beaches, dramatic coastal landscapes, family-friendly attractions and welcoming towns. We took advantage of Brixham’s position at the southern end of Tor Bay and caught the No 12 Stagecoach bus to Torquay, via Paignton. The journey takes about 35 mins and the buses are frequent from Brixham Town Square. Mr Fletche and I bought £5 Day Rider tickets; Ma and Pa Lee took advantage of their OAP bus passes. I have to wait until March 2045 before I qualify for one of those.

Where we stayed

Ma and Pa Lee booked a caravan on the John Fowler South Bay Caravan Park, which is located about a mile above the harbour town of Brixham. Expect bingo, “fun” quizzes, cabaret time and entertainment staff wearing garishly coloured blazers. Ma and Pa Lee enjoyed their caravan stay so much they’ve only gone and bought one themselves. We will now be spending all our UK minibreaks in South Shropshire.

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