Travel Diaries: Rome in Three Days

It was inevitable that Italy would be high on our travel wish list once we could travel again. After all, it’s always been our happy place. A visit to the Michelangelo Sistine Chapel exhibition in Birmingham just increased the wanderlust and left me searching for flights to Rome to see the real thing. The research began. Flights were booked. Hotels were long listed and shortlisted. Time to plan how to see the best of Rome in three days.

We also decided to tag on a few days in Sorrento. It was the perfect place to spend a birthday after being grounded for the last two years. I’ve already written about how to travel by train from Rome to Sorrento.

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Rome Travel Diaries: Arrival Day

It’s been a long day thanks to a 4:15 alarm. Thankful for twilight check-in, we skip straight through to security at Birmingham airport. Or we would, if there wasn’t one sole man scanning all the boarding passes. Which inevitably, weren’t scanning. Which meant this one sole man was also having to check each passport.

By the time we reach Rome, our early morning woes are forgotten, and we’ve caught a second wind. We don’t fancy tackling the bus with our suitcase so we catch a cab. It’s €19 – slightly more than it should be but this will eventually be evened out by the cheaper cab ride back to Termini on our way out of Rome.

We stayed at the Hotel Barratt on Via di Torre Argentina – you can read all about our stay at this little Rome accommodation gem here.

The Pantheon

Our first Rome attraction is one of the cities big-hitters – The Pantheon. It’s just a few minutes stroll from our hotel, and will be the starting point for most of our roaming in Rome. Entrance to the Pantheon is free but it’s worth noting that on Saturdays and Sundays, a free timed ticket must be obtained online. On a Thursday afternoon, we were able to join the queue, which moved quickly, and headed inside.

The Pantheon is the largest unsupported concrete dome in the world – some feat for architecture dating back 2000 years. The original temple to the Gods was rebuilt by Hadrian (yes, he of the wall) in 120AD. The exterior façade and interior rotunda has been replicated in countless other buildings – even The Dome in Edinburgh, where we celebrated Mr Fletche’s 50th birthday earlier in the year. The only natural source of light is the oculus. Which means that it’s wet inside when it rains (although small holes in the floor provide an effective drainage system).

It’s truly an impressive monument, both inside and out.

As we have foodie plans tonight, we make a whistle stop tour through Piazza Navona and Campo de Fiori. The latter – once the site of executions – is a bustling market place by day and a vibrant square in the evening, perfect for a spot of people-watching. For now, we head towards the river.

The River Tiber runs through the heart of Rome, separating centro storico from the Vatican and the foodie hub Trastevere. Legend has it that the abandoned twins Romulus and Remus were found by the she-wolf Lupa on the banks of the river. There are multiple bridges criss-crossing the river, we cross Ponte Sisto for our first glimpse of Trastevere.

Trastevere

Once a hidden gem, the tourists have definitely found this slightly bohemian area but there are enough pastel coloured alleyways and tiny piazze to escape the crowds. It’s the kind of place where you can easily get lost, yet don’t really mind. By day, laundry billows from washing lines strung between weathered buildings. By night, laughter and music spills out from bars, locals and tourists alike enjoying a low-key nightlife vibe.

We took a foodie tour in Trastevere on our first night in Rome, not only to find the best places to eat but also to find out a little more about the neighbourhood. There’s that awkward part when we get to the meeting point early – are we the only ones on the tour? Will the guide turn up? Are we even in the right place? Our fears are allayed when Amelia turns up, as do our 8 fellow foodies (some later than others, which means us early birds trying to spot potential foodie couples).

I’m not going to spoil too much as there’s a blog post here all about our Trastevere Food Tour, but suffice to say we ate (and drank) very well on our first night in Rome. The perfect start to our three days in Rome.

Travel Diaries: Exploring Imperial Rome

If you’re a history buff, then you’re definitely going to want to explore the iconic attractions associated with imperial Rome. The Big Three are The Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine Hill. We have an early morning date with Jan the tour guide, so we stuff a bag with pastry goodies from the Hotel Barratt breakfast basket and head down Via dei Fori Imperiali to our meeting place.

Connecting Piazza Venezia with the Colosseum, you’re literally strolling through history, with ancient ruins on either side of this wide avenue. At the end of this road stands the magnificent Colosseum.

The Colosseum

No trip to Rome can be complete without a visit to the Flavian Ampitheater – one of the world’s most popular tourist attractions and the most visited landmark in Italy. The Colosseum has stood for almost 2000 years. Incredibly well preserved, I hope I look as good at 2000 years old. It’s amazing that it only took ten years to build. There’s actually a model of the Colosseum in the exhibition inside which took LONGER to build than the Colosseum itself.

In order to fully appreciate the history of this amazing place we booked a 9am guided tour, with skip-the-line tickets. Even skip-the-line tickets don’t skip the security line though; all bags are scanned and you walk through a body scanner to enter.

There are SO many different tours available that they all start to look the same. We chose this Colosseum and Arena Guided Tour from Get Your Guide after hours of research. If the costs, durations and times suit you, and the tour covers what you want to see then go ahead and book. Continuing to look will cause you to go goggle-eyed. I’m speaking from experience.

Standing in this giant amphitheatre, you can’t help but feel insignificant. There’s so much history, right under your feet. Our tour takes us from level to level, experiencing views which would have been shared by emperors, Roman citizens and slaves alike.

Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum

Our next stop is Palatine Hill. Older than the city itself, this is the most famous of Rome’s seven hills, overlooking the Roman Forum on one side and Circus Maximus on the other. There’s a welcome toilet stop at the entrance. Loo roll seems to be scarce, so I skip down the queue, freely handing out tissues. Chapter One in my upcoming book “How to Make Friends and Inf-LOO-ence People”.

Naturally – being a hill – there’s a bit of an upward climb, but thankfully nothing too challenging. We dodge the sunshine in the shade of the olive trees, the Colosseum shyly peeping between.

Right next door to the Colosseum is the Roman Forum. The heart of modern civilization and the epicentre of ancient Rome, these ruins have survived for centuries. This was where emperors, gladiators and residents would mingle in temples, churches and halls of justice. Our guide tells us tales and legends of great history as we weave our way through the myriad of ruins. The political upheavals and the triumphant parades. Funerals and celebrations.

Many Colosseum tickets will also give you access to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill sites. Make sure you plan your day accordingly so that you can maximise your time. Our morning tour meant that we have plenty of time to continue exploring.

Piazza Navona

We’re a little hot and bothered from all the sweaty sightseeing so we swing by our hotel to freshen up. Lunch is a mixture of goodies grabbed from the in-room goodie basket. Bread rolls. Cooked meats. Cheese. Chocolate biscuits. A perfect combination. For afters, an Aperol Spritz at one of the many bars lining Piazza Navona. Yes, one of those touristy, expensive bars that I tell everyone to avoid. We don’t even get nibbles.

Piazza Navona is another perfect spot for people-watching. Baroque architecture surrounds the square, which also features the stunning Fountain of Four Rivers by Bernini and Egyptian obelisk. In ancient Rome the square was used as a track for chariot races and other sporting events. Nowadays, music from buskers fill the air and local artists sell their wares, a perfect souvenir to bring home.

The Spanish Steps

As we’re roaming around Rome trying to find the perfect place for a rooftop cocktail, we tick another entry off the Rome bingo card. The Spanish Steps climb the steep slope between Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Trinita dei Monti. As long as you dodge the touts selling “genuine” designer handbags, sunglasses and selfie sticks, and the scammers with their bracelet weaving, The Spanish Steps are perfect to soak up the atmosphere of the city.

This isn’t the first time we’ve come across the bracelet weavers on our travels. Mr Fletche practically adopted one in Paris. It cost us €10 to get him free.

All things considered – it’s just a wide staircase. If you’re roaming around Rome then you’ll inevitably come across the Spanish Steps – either from the top or bottom – at some point.

Trevi Fountain

In typical Fletcher fashion, we take the most circuitous route from the Spanish Steps to the Trevi Fountain. We only realise we’re approaching from the rear when we hear the sudden gush of water.

Trevi Fountain fact: The fountain sits at the junction of three streets. “Tre vie” in Italian. And that, dear reader, is how the Trevi(e) Fountain got it’s name.

The rumours are true. Trevi Fountain is insanely busy. Plan a late night or early morning visit so you can enjoy this splendid sight in relative peace. Designed by Nicola Salvi, water pours from 24 spouts surrounding the central figure “Ocean”. If you toss a coin over your shoulder into the fountain it’s meant to ensure a return trip to Rome. They haven’t yet introduced a contactless alternative.

Despite the crowds, we are able to make our way to the front. Most people pose for a quick photo and move on. A kind gentleman offers to take our photo together. He takes several photos, none of which are flattering. The one from below where you can see right up our noses is a particular gem. He then produces his own camera and offers to take more shots “for a small fee”. We politely decline. I throw a euro in the fountain, a special tribute to my gran who always wanted to visit Rome. She’d have declared that up-the-nostril photo truly beautiful.

Trevi Fountain Tip: the fountain is emptied for cleaning every Mon, Weds and Friday morning between 8-9am.

Having only eaten food with our fingers all day, it’s time for a more civilised meal. We seat ourselves in one restaurant but Mr Fletche is getting bad vibes so we exit before the bread basket arrives. Instead we find ourselves in Piazza della Maddalena, at Volpe Pasini. It’s nothing fancy, but Mr Fletche gives me the thumbs up as a good-vibes-kinda-place. A half-litre of wine and I’m definitely feeling those good vibes too. We share a pizza and a pear and walnut salad, and consume most of the bread basket.

It’s been a day packed full of Rome highlights. And packed full of walking. The hotel room foot massager is my favourite toy ever. Even if does give me tingles in lots of odd places and makes me giggle.

Travel Diaries: Spiritual Rome

It’s our second day in Rome, and an early start, heading back over the Tiber. This time we’re ticking the smallest country in the world, Vatican City, off our travel ticklist. Yes, two countries for the price of one.

St Peter’s Square

My original plan was to visit St Peter’s Basilica first thing in the morning. After all, it’s open from 7am, the dome from 8am and we had 9am tickets to the Vatican Museums. Except it’s about 8:30am when we arrive, I’ve wasted a lot of time taking lots of photos on Via Della Concillazione as we approach, and I’m anxious because I don’t know where the Museum entrance is. The Get Your Guide ticket exchange info is sketchy to say the least.

The Vatican Museums entrance is actually about a 15 minute walk from St Peter’s Square so make sure you leave plenty of time if you have a timed entrance ticket. We have to fight our way through several tour groups. Useful tip, cross over the road on Viale Vaticano and walk up the other side. There’s less chance of getting caught in a tidal wave of tourists.

Vatican Museums

We opt for a skip-the-line Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel ticket with audio guide so that we can make the most of our morning. As with the Colosseum, skipping the line doesn’t necessarily mean skipping the airport-like security queues.

Out of the four tours booked with Get Your Guide, this was the only one that was a little confusing in terms of exchanging your voucher for a ticket, and then picking up an audio guide. I vaguely wave my booking in front of security, and then at the ticket office, and then at the audio guide people. And then we return to the audio guide people when Mr Fletche’s headset doesn’t work.

There is so much to see in the Vatican Museums, and we were grateful of the audio guide so that we could stop and get a little more information on pieces that particularly interested us. There are 26 museums within the Vatican – even the greatest art and culture buff can’t plan to see everything. Turns out that Pope Julius II was quite the collector.

There’s a “museum path” which winds its way through the highlights. Honestly – there’s a lot you can skip. Some of the museums are very niche. I like this “Vatican Museums Greatest Hits” list from The Geographical Cure. We found that the must-sees were the Gallery of Maps, Laocoön and his Sons, by the Raphael Rooms which houses the magnificent School of Athens, and the lavish Borgia apartments.

The grand finale is the Sistine Chapel, with Michelangelo’s frescoes adorning the ceiling. Prepare to have neck ache from looking up. There’s lot of naked male bodies. Whisper it quietly, but I was a little bit underwhelmed.

The Vatican has a strict dress code – no shorts, no hats, no cleavage, no bare shoulders. Comfy shoes are also a must. We visited on a Saturday, and even with an early booking, it was busy. Visit midweek if you can for a more relaxing visit. Bring snacks rather than purchasing food from the onsite restaurants – we stayed in the area to eat porchetta and drink beer at Angry Pig. In fact, we were first in line at opening time.

St Peter’s Basilica

We return to St Peter’s Square. The queue for the Basilica is now snaking around the piazza. We have no idea where the queue even begins. The temperatures are soaring and there is no shade. Mr Fletche has the excellent idea of returning a little later, just before the last admission time.

In all honesty, we are Vatican’d out by this point. Over 2000 years of history, fine art masterpieces, frescoes and artefacts have left us with a little bit of museum fatigue. Plus we’ve seen an entire country in half a day.

We cross back over the River Tiber via Ponte Sant’Angelo, a great spot for getting photos of Castel Sant’Angelo, a former mausoleum and fortress, and now an eclectic museum with a ton of history. It’s time for a takeaway tiramisu from Two Sizes.

We head back to Vatican City at 6pm. Our patience has paid off. There’s still a queue, but at least now there’s a discernible end. Or beginning, depending how you look at it. Entry to the basilica is free, but once again we’re subjected to the airport security scans. It’s worth the wait. The interior is beautiful. Plus we get to see the Swiss Guard, with their snazzy multi-coloured uniforms.

Trastevere. Again

We return to Trastevere for our last evening in Rome (until our next last evening in Rome, five days later). It’s quite the walk from the Vatican. It looked closer on the map. Eventually though, we arrive. We’re determined to find some of the places recommended on our food tour, and thus we lose ourselves in narrow cobblestoned alleyways. And end up at the first bistro we see, for a giant charcuterie and cheese platter. Then it’s beer at graffitied dive bar Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fa.

It’s almost the perfect end to our 48 hours in Rome. No, that hotel room foot massager was the perfect end to our 48 hours in Rome. I debate leaving all my clothes behind and packing that in my suitcase instead.

Travel Diaries: Mopping up Rome

Five days later we are back in Rome. We have a final afternoon/evening in Rome before our flight on Friday lunchtime. Our hotel is close to Roma Termini for convenience; there aren’t many tourist sights to see in this neighbourhood. So we head north west.

Villa Borghese

We spend an hour wandering around the beautiful Borghese Gardens, Rome’s leafy urban park. It offers a respite from the crowds and a chance to take in some fresh air. All the traffic around the city can make the air feel a little oppressive at times. There are 80 hectares of gardens to explore, and a beautiful boating lake. I’m tempted to hire a bike but Mr Fletche reminds me that cycling and I are not a good combination.

Galleria Borghese houses one of the world’s most significant art collections, bursting with masterpieces by Caravaggio, Bernini and Raphael. But today, we’re content to just take in the late afternoon sunshine. After all, we’re heading back home tomorrow and we don’t know when we’ll see the sun again.

Piazza del Popolo

The “People’s Square”. With it’s beautiful fountains, egyptian obelisk and twin churches, this is a great location for a spot of people watching. It is also the location of the Porta del Popolo, the site of the northern gateway to the city during the Roman Empire.

Ahead of the Italian General Election, we stumble upon a far right political rally. We decide not to linger and head up to Belvedere Terrace for sunset views. Pincio Terrace is also an excellent sunset spot, but some of the terrace overlooking Piazza del Popolo is cordoned off by police because of the rally below. We grab a beer from one of the mobile stalls which are omnipresent near the tourist hotspots; a short walk and we find ourselves at the top of the Spanish Steps, looking down on the spot we had stood a few days before.

It’s our last evening in Rome. Again. We’ve been back for a day and my feet are already remembering the punishing schedule I put them through the first time. I miss that massager. We break up our walk back to the hotel with dinner at La Botte Antica on via Sistina. Considering it’s location close to the Spanish Steps it didn’t feel like a tourist trap and was the ideal place to ruminate on our Roman holiday over a litre of house red and a creme brulee.

Rome Travel Planning

Like many cities, Rome can be somewhat overwhelming. It’s a good idea to have some idea of what you want to do each day, and group them together according to geographical location. This saves valuable time backtracking across the city. This is where Google maps is your friend.

Staying somewhere central also helps – we found the location around Largo di Torre Argentina and Pantheon to be perfect for a first time visitor, within walking distance of all the major sights. On our next visit I’ll definitely look at staying in the Trastevere neighbourhood, although I’m not sure my waistline would thank me.

Monuments, museums and galleries can be quite costly. Plan what you want to see beforehand, book tickets and budget accordingly. I pre-booked tours over the space of a couple of weeks before our trip. It’s good to research a few “free” things to do, and also some rainy day activities, just in case. We recommend Get Your Guide. This isn’t a sponsored post but there are so many tour companies out there that we wanted to pass on the recommendation.

You don’t want to spend half your days queuing for sights so I’d recommend paying a little extra for a skip-the-line ticket. To avoid the crowds, see the Colosseum, Vatican Museums and St Peter’s Basilica first thing in the morning, or late in the afternoon. Although quite possibly everyone may heed this advice and do the same thing.

Getting around Rome

The best way to get around Rome is simply to walk. Meander down narrow streets, spotting cool carvings and memorials not mentioned in the guide books. We always felt safe walking around Rome, even at night-time.

Rome does have an efficient public transport system, and is useful if you’re trying to get from one side of the city to the other. (Although if you’ve followed my travel planning tips and itineraries then hopefully this will be kept to a minimum!). You can buy transport tickets at Tabaccerie or at vending machines found at metro stations. A single ticket for 100 minutes ride time is €1,50, and gives access to subway, metro, bus and trams. Always remember to validate a single ticket.

There is a night bus between Termini Station and Vatican which runs every 15 minutes. Check timetables in advance so you’re not stuck. Taxis can be caught at official ranks and Uber is also an option, although charges are high. Taxis don’t always accept credit cards, so always make sure you have some cash available.

If you’re feeling brave, all the cool Romans seem to get around by electric scooter or bike. You can register on an app, grab an e-scooter and off you go!

From Fiumicino Airport to Rome

The Rome Airport Train – or Leonardo Express – takes about thirty minutes from Fiumicino to Rome’s Termini Station. The Leonardo Express leaves every 15 minutes from Felice Santini train station, accessed directly from the airport. You can purchase tickets from the automated Trenitalia machines, or from the ticket office. You’ll use your ticket to access the platform, so there’s no need to validate your ticket in the machines. Keep it handy though, as conductors are on board to check.

The Leonardo Express isn’t the cheapest option, costing €14 for a single ticket, but it is the quickest and avoids traffic congestion on the outskirts of the city. There’s also plenty of luggage space. Once at Roma Termini, buses are frequent to all areas of the city. We decided not to struggle with our luggage on arrival though, and took a taxi right to our hotel on Largo di Torre Argentina (€19).

Can you explore Rome in three days?

Rome is an incredible city, full of history, food and culture. In just three days you can get a perfect taste of the Eternal City. Is three days in Rome enough? In all honesty, I think we only just scratched the surface. We didn’t want to cram our days too heavily, so I pre-booked tours for the big hitters early in the day, leaving the rest of the day to meander around the city at leisure. I quickly abandoned all of the carefully planned walking routes in favour of wandering the streets. Instead I used my heavily pinned Google Map to guide us to sights in whatever area we found ourselves.

“A fool is one who admires other cities without visiting Rome.”
-Francesco Petrarca, Italian Poet

I truly fell in love with Rome – as I tend to do with all Italian cities. Venice, Florence, Milan, Verona – and now Rome – have all captured my heart. I look forward to making a return visit soon. Have you ever visited Rome?

We actually ended up making an unexpected return visit to Rome earlier than expected, just a year later when our Bari flight was cancelled due to storms! You can read more about that tumultuous trip here!