Travelling by Train in Italy
When we were planning our Italian trip, there was so much we wanted to see. Cities like Venice and Florence were high on the agenda, as was time spent on the Ligurgian coast. With cities and towns well-connected by rail, it was a no-brainer to avoid the stress of driving in Italy. We decided to let the train take the strain. So here’s how we planned it; a beginners guide to travelling by train in Italy.
Our Journey
Our train journey took us from the stylish Milan to romantic Verona, to the domes and spires of Venice and to the art of Florence. The final stop was Cinque Terre, the famous five villages which cling to the craggy cliffs above the aquiline sea. We used a combination of Trainline and Trenitalia for buying tickets in advance, and also used ticket machines at the railway stations for regional journeys. We found travelling by train in Italy to be molto facile!
Travelling by train in Italy was so easy that we did it again recently!. This time, we took the train from Rome to Sorrento via Naples. You can find out more about that journey here!
Milan Malpensa Express
If you’re flying into Milan, the Milan Malpensa Express is the quickest way to travel into the city. It runs every 30-60 minutes and takes around 50 minutes to reach central Milan. One-way adult tickets cost €13 and can be purchased from the self-service ticket machines – remember to validate your ticket in the yellow machine on the platform. There are two different routes; one serves Milan Centrale and Porta Garibaldi; the other serves Milan Cadorna. We found our journey to Cadorna only took around 30 minutes when we arrived on an early-morning flight. Trains from Milan Malpensa run from 4:57am to 11:27pm, 7 days a week. There’s ample luggage space, and USB sockets at most seats.
The Milan metro system is also easy to navigate so it’s simple to travel between stations should you get the more frequent Milan Centrale train but require Cadorna, or vice versa. It’s a good idea to check before you travel which station will be best for your accommodation. We found that flights to Milan were some of the cheapest, so it’s always worth checking rail journeys starting and ending in Milan. Plus Milan is a perfect city for a short stay before your onward travel.
Milan to Verona
Milan is a great starting point for many beautiful locations in Northern Italy, including Lakes Como, Garda et al. We were heading further east, to Verona. There are frequent direct services between Milan and Verona, and the fast train takes around 70 minutes from Milan Centrale to Verona Porta Nuova. Tickets are around £15/€18 per person when booked in advance.
The station is located south of Verona’s city centre; we took a bus from Porta Nuova to Piazza Bra. This was more stressful than any train journey that we took. It would have been easier to walk the 20 minutes from the station.
Verona to Venice
Trains from Verona to Venice can take anywhere from 1 hour to 2 hrs 15 minutes, depending on whether you choose a high-speed or regional train. Booking in advance, you can pick up a ticket for as little as £8/€9,5 per person.
Venezia Santa Lucia is a train station like no other, located on the banks of the Grand Canal. This stop is the end of the line, and is the destination you’ll need if you’re staying in the historic heart of Venice. The city does have another station on the mainland, Venezia Mestre. The vaporetto and water taxis are available just outside the door to transport you to your final destination. There’s no better way to arrive at your hotel.
Venice to Florence
On our trip, this was the only time we “splurged” on a First Class ticket. Purchased well in advance, the First Class ticket was almost the same cost as a Standard ticket so this was a no-brainer for us. First Class meant comfier seats, more leg room, and complimentary snacks and sparkling wine. In advance, standard tickets are around £30/€35 , and First Class around £35/€40 per person.
The high speed Frecciarossa takes around 2 hours from Venezia Santa Lucia to the Tuscan capital. Firenze Santa Maria Novella station is a 10 minute walk from the central area, the Duomo, the Arno River and the famous galleries and museums. After the relative tranquillity of the Venice waterways, Florence was a bit of a shock to the system with it’s traffic, noise and litter!
From Florence, it’s also an easy journey to Pisa via the local train network. The Leaning Tower is a pleasant 30 minute walk from Pisa Centrale. Unless it’s raining. When it’s not so fun.
Florence to La Spezia/Cinque Terre
La Spezia is the gateway railway station to Cinque Terre, and is connected to all the major cities. From Florence we travelled to La Spezia via Pisa, a journey which takes around three hours. Standard tickets for this journey can be purchased for as little as £13/€15 per person.
Out of all our train journeys in Italy, this was the most uncomfortable, and with lots of people getting on and off at various stations we did keep a careful eye on our luggage at the end of the carriage. At La Spezia you connect to the regional Cinque Terre Express. The Cinque Terre Express links the five coastal villages, La Spezia and Levanto. Note: if the train drivers on this route strike, journeys between the towns become almost impossible unless you fancy a hike. Which is exactly what happened to us on our first full day in Cinque Terre. Hence the unplanned hike between Monterosso-Al-Mare and Vernazza.
When they are not striking, the trains are frequent. A single journey adult ticket within the Cinque Terre National Park is €4 and valid for 75 minutes (one stop only). Or you can purchase a Cinque Terre Train Card for 1, 2 or 3 days
La Spezia/Cinque Terre to Milan Malpensa
There are trains direct from Monterosso-al-Mare to Milan Centrale. The journey is around 3 hours. From Milan Centrale it’s a 50 minute journey to the airport on the Milan Malpensa Express.
Travelling by train in Italy – all the essential details
Trenitalia is the main rail operator in Italy. In Northern Italy, between cities we mainly travelled on the high-speed Frecciarossa – the Red Arrow. Italo also run high-speed trains on these routes, so check the train operator matches the one on your ticket before you board. Tickets can be pre-booked, and seats reserved. In fact, the earlier the tickets are booked, the more likely you are to find a bargain (like our Premium Class for the price of Standard Class tickets on our Venice to Florence journey).
Of course, these fast trains are more expensive, so if you’re on a budget you can go for a Regionale or an Intercity train. Rather than planning in advance, you can purchase tickets for these on the day at the station. Of the course the downside is that journeys are much longer, and you’re not always able to book seats. A journey from Milan to Rome takes 6.5 hours on an intercity train, compared to 3 hours on the Frecciarossa. Regional trains tend to take a much more leisurely approach to travel, often calling at multiple stations between destinations.
We found train schedules, departure boards, ticket machines and signage extremely easy to understand, with a lot of information posted in English. The biggest challenge was working out which train was the correct one when sometimes there seem to be multiple trains heading to the same destination at the same time.
If you are buying your ticket at the station always remember to validate it in the yellow machine on the platform before you board. If you’re unable to validate for some reason, seek out the conductor at the earliest opportunity. And don’t forget to remove your ticket from the machine once validated! You don’t need to validate e-tickets but you will need to show this to the conductor on request.
You may decide to purchase a railpass, however it is worth weighing up the costs against purchasing city-to-city tickets. A railpass means hassle-free travel and queuing to buy tickets, but you may only be able to use certain routes or trains. You can find our more about the Eurail Italy Pass here.
Planning for your trip by train
Pack light. Not something I’m very good at, and I regret lugging a large wheeled suitcase around Italy. These were not particularly useful on cobbled streets – a lesson that we should have learned in Bruges. Not all stations have elevators or escalators so you’ll get a workout carrying luggage up and down stairs. Also, whilst the Frecciarossa and airport trains have ample luggage space, this isn’t always the case on regional or intercity trains. On our trip from Florence to La Spezia our suitcases were by the door, and I panicked at every stop about someone snatching them if we didn’t keep guard at all times. Make sure you have a smaller bag with you to keep your valuables close.
Some trains have a buffet car, but we found it best to pick up snacks and drinks from the station or from a vendor outside. Even better, snaffle an extra helping from the breakfast buffet. Croissants are perfect to shove in a pocket.
Even if you have e-tickets or a rail pass, make sure you arrive at the station 15-20 minutes before departure. This should give you plenty of time to get your bearings and find the right platform. If you don’t have pre-booked seats it’s also a good idea to board as early as you’re able to find a seat – especially if it may be a lengthy journey. If you’re planning to snooze, or immerse yourself in a book or music or wi-fi, it’s probably a good idea to set an alarm for yourself 10 minutes before the planned arrival time. Stations are announced prior to arrival but you don’t want to risk missing your stop!
Enjoy the journey – Buon viaggio!
Travelling by train in Italy is a wonderful experience – and a little bit of research and pre-planning should take away any stress! So sit back, take in the sights as they roll past your window, and enjoy the journey!
The Blog Posts
Venice: 48 hours in Venice Part 1 and Part 2
Florence: Coming Over All Cultural In Florence, An Appointment with Michelangelo’s David in Florence and All Aboard the Pisa Express – Florence
Cinque Terre: Beside the Seaside, Train strikes and long hikes: Cinque Terre and Village Hopping and Final Musings: Cinque Terre
Having driven in Italy, I think letting the train take the strain might be a good strategy for my next visit.
Rail fares are so much more reasonable in Europe compared to the UK. A useful guide here thanks for sharing.
This sounds like a great trip! I have to say we were planning to drive in Italy last week (RIP Italy flights) and I’m actually glad we didn’t end up doing it cause driving in Italy sounds like a nightmare. Would still love to road trip in northern Italy, but for this type of itinerary the train sounds perfect! Will have to look into this for when we do eventually go. 🙂