Part-time traveller, Full-Time Brummie

A Brummie Home and Abroad Guide to Luxembourg City

Three days in Luxembourg
I’m not going to beat around the bush. Luxembourg City is tiny. So tiny that you can see it all in half a day, or a full day with a stop in a bar or two to eke out your time. So how did we fill our three full days in Luxembourg?
Arrival Day and Day One in Luxembourg City
Mr Fletche and I get our first taster of the public transport system straight off the plane, easily purchasing two short-trip €2 tickets from the machine outside and locating our bus stop. The No 29 bus takes us to within just a couple of minutes walk from our AirBnB on Rue des Trevires. It’s not long before we’re back out of the apartment when we realise we have forgot the vital travel adaptor and have several mobile devices that need charging.  Rookie error. We trundle off to the local Monoprix, where we find one universal travel adaptor and plenty of other supplies. Including beer and bananas, which if you’ve read my Croatia blogs you’ll know are our staple holiday requirements. Dinner consists of a gin and tonic from Scott’s Pub and a ham and cheese sarnie in our apartment.

Day One – Exploring Luxembourg City. Once. Twice. And once more for good luck.

It’s a reasonably bright morning when we emerge from our apartment, although not particularly warm considering we are just one day away from July. Today has been earmarked as a day for exploring all that the capital has to offer. And already we are wondering how we are going to fill the next two and a half days. However, our day looks something like this:
Barrio Grund. We ascend the steep cobbled path of Montee de la Petrusse towards the Grund. . This borough of Luxembourg City is nestled alongside the Petrusse and Alzette river, at the base of Montee de Clausen. Cobbled streets, stone bridges and UNESCO listed buildings such as Abbaye de Neumunster make this a charming and pleasant place to walk. As long as you realise that that long steep walk down makes for a long steep walk back up*. There’s also an abundance of bars and restaurants, including the aforementioned Scott’s Pub.
(*Since coming home I have discovered that there is in fact an elevator down to (and more importantly, up from) this area. This may have made our trip somewhat more pleasant)

A Brummie Home and Abroad Guide to Luxembourg City

A classic Luxembourg view

A Brummie Home and Abroad Guide to Luxembourg City

Views over Grund from Cité Judiciaire

Les Rives de Clausen. It’s a pleasant walk along the riverside to les Rives de Clausen, location of the old Mousel brewery.  Now it’s a nightlife hotspot, with bars, clubs and restaurants. Although it’s not really hopping at 10:30am on a Friday morning.
Place Guillaume II.  We clamber up Montee de Clausen, out of the Luxembourg City gorge into the upper town. We pass Casemates du Bock (more on that later), the 10th century Église Saint-Michel, the Grand Ducal Palace – official residence of the Grand Duke et sa famille – and on to Place Guillaume II. Which is currently half a building site thanks to the construction of an underground car park. Luxembourg City is full of construction. It’s like Copenhagen all over again. Or the centre of Birmingham. Still, it’s a pleasant place to grab a quick al-fresco hot beverage from Kaempff-Kohler, which appears to be part coffee shop, part cafe, part deli and part patisserie.
Place D’Armes. A passageway from Place Guillaume II leads us to another square. This one is tree-lined, has a jazz band playing on a bandstand and is surrounded by cafes and restaurants. Two of which are the ubiquitous McDonalds and Pizza Hut. There are more people in this area, and the surrounding shopping streets then anywhere else we’ve seen in the city so far. We have lunch at the popular Downtown cafe on Rue Chimay; luckily we turn up just after the heaving lunchtime rush and are seated quite quickly despite initially being told there were no available tables.
Casemates du Bock: if you’re compiling a list of “things to do” in Luxembourg City then it’s safe to say that this UNESCO World Heritage site will be pretty near the top of that list. 17km of tunnels remain within the Bock promontory, all that’s left of Count Siegfrid’s fortified 10th century castle. The tunnels have been used as shelter during both world wars, and as stables, kitchens and a slaughterhouse, but now it’s mostly full of tourists pretending to fire cannons and cursing when a particularly narrow spiral staircase leads to another dead end. (6,00€ each, or 12,00€ for a guided tour)
A Brummie Home and Abroad Guide to Luxembourg City

Inside Casemates du Bock

Le Chemin De La Corniche: Once you’ve emerged from the cool, dark tunnels, you can take in the views across the Grund from the ramparts on this walkway which has been called “Europe’s most beautiful balcony” (although I think fans of Mönchsberg in Salzburg may beg to differ). This path will take you all the way back down to the lower parts of town…meaning another hike to clamber out.
A Brummie Home and Abroad Guide to Luxembourg City

Views from Chemin de la Corniche

Parcs de la Petrusse: After Friday night fish and chips at Oscars, we decide to walk across to town via Parcs de la Petrusse. It’s a beautiful walk through the lush green valley nestling against the bottom of the cliffs, from Passerelle Viaduct down to Adolphe Bridge. There a great skate park and outdoor gym if you’re into that sort of thing too. It’s only when we get to Adolphe Bridge that we realise that due to the construction work taking place on the bridge we can’t exit the park. We find ourselves retracing our steps before finally finding a staircase which will bring us out next to Place de la Constitution.
City Skyliner (summer 2017 only): Usually the Gëlle Fra monument is the star of Place de la Constitution, but this summer she is eclipsed by the giant mobile observation tower that is the City Skyliner. 81m tall and offering 360° views over the capital, it’s a seven minute journey into the sky. The tower is on it’s own European tour at the moment and leaves Luxembourg City on 6th August (7,00€ each)

You can retrace our steps using this map!

Want to know what we did with the rest of our time in Luxembourg? Click here for Part 2!

2018 Update: Did you know you can now download this city guide through the GPSmyCity app on iOS and Android? For GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article, and other related city walks and tour guides, search for “Luxembourg”, or you can find all the Luxembourg content here!

*All photos are taken by myself or by CPF Photography (reproduced with permission) unless otherwise stated*

A Brummie Home and Abroad Guide to Luxembourg City


47 responses to “A Brummie Home and Abroad Guide to Luxembourg City”

  1. […] what do you do when you’ve seen Luxembourg City in one day? Make a plan to use the country’s fab public transport system and get out and […]

  2. Great post Em, never been to Luxembourg, looks great though 🙂

  3. April Munday says:

    It’s pretty, but I don’t think you’ve convinced me it’s worth a visit yet.

  4. Ritu says:

    Looks like a great short stop destination!

  5. You are funny April, and now the big question will Em take up the challenge 🙂 Though do enjoy your honesty! Would be fun to get a housesit there, not holding my breath as they are a bit like hen’s teeth!! Enjoyable post as usual Em 🙂

  6. What a cute apartment. I want to explore those tunnels!

  7. Can you actually go into the Ducal Palace?? (I always have to visit the Royal Palaces if possible 😀 ) Luxembough City looks to be quieter, which I think is sometimes more enjoyable on a holiday- you can race around London, Paris, and Berlin until your feet fall off and only see a minuscule part of the city but in some cases, you just don’t feel like racing. Absolutely lovely pics, Em!!

    • emfletche says:

      I think you can during the summer when the duchy are on their summer hols 😁 We certainly felt like we could enjoy the city without having to rush around x

  8. angelanoelauthor says:

    This looks like such a beautiful, if tiny city. What made you want to visit? I’ve heard only a little about Luxembourg overall but would love to learn more.

  9. Lisa Orchard says:

    Wow! Love the pics! I love these posts about traveling. It makes me want to get out and do some traveling myself. Some day, when my kids are a little bit older. 🙂

  10. I know this is a bit off topic, but I loved your last Pinterest worthy image!
    And aren’t those 1 day cities that you can stretch into several a blast? Sometimes it’s great not to pack itineraries to bursting and hope that the photos you snagged will jog the memory a few weeks later when you have time to relax and “enjoy” the vacation.

  11. O what a cute little city!

  12. Gloria says:

    It looks beautiful. I’ve never been but it’s on my list if places to visit! I’ll Pin it to my board of places I’d like to visit!

  13. […] trip to Luxembourg at the end of June was the first time we’d gone all carry-on. Mr Fletche and I had perfected […]

  14. masgautsen says:

    Never thought about wanting to go to Luxembourg, but now I might have to reconsider.

  15. I have never been but I definitely want to. I like that it is small.

  16. I had a brief stop at a service station somewhere in Luxembourg en route to Italy once, but it was 1am and all I can remember is it was dark, I was drinking apple juice and was really tired! This is certainly somewhere I’d like to properly visit now!!!

  17. drallisonbrown says:

    Looks marvelous! I had a penpal from Luxembourg when I was in about fourth grade. Long time ago! By the way, what’s a brummie? 😀

  18. Phil Taylor says:

    Wow! I’d love to go to Luxembourg! I’ve never known much about it but your post sold me on it.

  19. josypheen says:

    I think it’s good that you didn’t know about the elevator! This way you get to be smug about all your climbing…and you can eat more yummy food without feeling guilty!
    Luxembourg looks lovely! What a pretty place to wander. 🙂

  20. Denzil says:

    Despite living in one of its neighbouring countries, I have never visited Lux. It’s about time I did, and your post will be the perfect guide! Thanks!

  21. […] A Brummie Home and Abroad Guide to Luxembourg City: Out of the places we visited in 2017, Luxembourg was possibly the quirkiest. For a capital city, it’s tiny and three days was possibly a little long to spend here! However we did make the most of Luxembourg’s efficient and cheap public transport system to get out and about and see some castles! […]

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