There are sights that are symbolic of Seville. The world’s largest Gothic Cathedral. The Royal Alcázar, with it’s blend of architectural styles. And there are the smells that are symbolic of Seville. The citrus smell of the bitter oranges. Tantalising aromas from each tapas bar and heady scent of red wine. But for me, the sound of Seville is the click of castanets, the snap of fingers and stamping of feet. It’s the sound of flamenco. And flamenco in Seville is everywhere.

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Flamenco originated in Andalucia, and it’s birthplace was Seville, or more specifically Triana, located across the Guadalquivir River. The original inhabitants of this neighbourhood were largely Roma and Moorish, and other groups displaced from elsewhere. From small, crowded tenements grew the music and language of flamenco – a lament to express pain and sadness. A guitar. A lone voice. Other voices, blending in, reacting and responding.

Flamenco in Seville is not always easy on the ears. At times, it sounds like a Muslim call to prayer. Yet it is hypnotic and intoxicating, and embodies a deep cultural heritage which stirs deep within. It’s more than a dance. It has even been recognised by UNESCO as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage“

“The flamenco of the Gypsy has nothing to do with the flamenco for tourists.  Real flamenco is like sex.”

Klaus Kinski

On our first evening, as we strolled underneath the multi-coloured Las Setas de Sevilla, I had my first experience of the sound of flamenco. I could hear the clicking of heels on a wooden floor, at an almost unimaginable pace and volume, emanating from a seemingly subterranean venue. Closer exploration leads us to the exterior of Tablao Flamenco De Las Setas, a flamenco venue nestling beneath the wooden structures of the Metropol Parasol. Although we leave it behind us, the sound echoes inside my head. The sound of Seville. The sound of flamenco.

On the following afternoon, we join the crowds gathered in the shady archways of the Plaza de España. A talented dancer spins and whirls whilst accompanied by singers, guitarists and rhythm-keeping claps. There are no long ruffled dresses or shawls here; a short jacket and flowing trousers extenuate and exaggerate the precise arm movements and fluidity of the movement. Crowds perch on ledges, a lucky few getting a front row seat on the steps. Others, like us, crane our heads around pillars to get a glimpse of the show. These performances in Plaza de España are technically free of charge, but voluntary donations are subtly encouraged by the proffering of a basket after each performance. I am more than willing to throw a €5 note into the pot – a small price to pay for the entertainment.

It is not our last brush with flamenco in Seville. Far from it. We have previously spent our wedding anniversary at the theatre in London, and at the opera in Vienna. This year, we are embracing culture once more and celebrating with a professional flamenco performance at a tablao flamenco. These shows immerse the audience into a storytelling experience performed by renowned guitarists, singers and dancers, showcasing different styles (palos) of flamenco.

Our Flamenco Experience at Tablao Los Gallos

There are a multitude of options available if you want to book tickets for a professional flamenco show. Some venues offer a show with dinner, others focus entirely on the performance without the distraction of food and drink. Certain tablao cropped up multiple times during my research: Casa de la Memoria; Tablao El Arenal; Museo del Baile Flamenco; and El Palacio Andaluz were all popular choices. But we opted for Tablao Los Gallos, just a five minute stroll from our hotel. It’s a little pricier than some of the others, but at 75 minutes it’s one of the longer shows and is recognised as one of the most prestigious venues in Seville.

We arrive at the venue 30 minutes before the 8:45pm show as recommended. The previous show is still in full flow, and from outside we can hear that wonderful percussive footwork. Performers spill out of the venue at the same time as the audience, embracing the slightly chilly Sevillian evening. We are shown to seats on the second row of a small auditorium, barely bigger than our living room. It will soon become obvious why guests aren’t seated on the very front row. A drinks order is taken before the show; table service is offered so as not to disrupt the performers.

This is one of Seville’s oldest flamenco venues, and regularly draws some of the world’s most renowned flamenco artists to it’s stage. There are no microphones or amplifiers; all of the sound is created by the performers. And what a sound it is. There are three bailaores (flamenco dancers): Lucía La Bronce, Rosario Toledo and Juan Tomás de la Molía. Álvaro Mora and José Luis Medina on toque (guitar), and there are three cantes (singers): Niño de Gines, Juan Murube and Juan Fernández. They seamlessly rotate throughout the show, creating variety and each bringing their own unique artistry.

For the second dance number, Le Bronce wears the traditional long-tailed bata de cola dress and intricately embroidered shawl. Both garments are an integral part of the movement, and her skirt sweeps the front tables. That’s why they don’t seat anyone there. Your drink would be in your lap in seconds. As it is, she’s creating quite the draught.

I am absolutely captivated by the movement and the music, trying to translate the essence of the storylines; of love and loss, jealousy and passion. I’m mesmerised by the flashes of footwork, and the slow wailing lament of the cantes. These shows may be for the tourists but it’s worth every penny. Thankfully, photos and videos are prohibited during the performance so you can enjoy being in the moment, but we are encouraged to take out our cameras for the final ensemble number.

You can book your tickets to Tablao Los Gallos here! The twice-nightly shows do often sell out so make sure you book your tickets in advance (tickets are on sale four months in advance for Tablao Los Gallos)

The more informal side of Flamenco

Street performances and paid shows aren’t the only ways to see flamenco in Seville. Flamenco is weaved into the nightlife of Seville, particularly in Triana, where small and intimate flamenco bars line Calle Betis. Passionate artists perform nightly, from enthusiastic amateurs to professionals finishing a shift at a tablao. These bars are a hotbed of sensuous, passionate music and dance. This is where flamenco is at its purest, the true heart of Seville. The music is earthy, and connects with the roots of flamenco. You don’t just hear the music, you feel it. Most are free to enter, but naturally you are expected to order a drink and a tapa or two. Most performances don’t begin until around 9:30-10pm, so do as the Sevillianos do and enjoy a late dinner before the nightlife truly begins.

We sadly didn’t make it over to enjoy the flamenco bars of Triana, but the following bars come highly recommended: Bar T de Triana, Lo Nuestro, El Rejoneo, and Bar El Mantoncillo. We did however make it to La Carboneria, handily located just behind our hotel. Tucked away down a cobbled residential street, and with nothing but a scrawled bar name on a gatepost, it’s not the kind of venue you accidentally stumble across. Yet it’s packed when we arrive just after 10pm, people spilling out into the courtyard. People come for the cheap drinks, and for the impromptu flamenco. This converted coal warehouse is one of the most popular hangouts in Seville, attracting locals and tourists alike, of all ages. I took no photos, and no videos, but just enjoyed soaking up the vibrant atmosphere. It’s an inexpensive way to experience flamenco in Seville

Final thoughts on Flamenco in Seville

You can’t go to Seville and not experience flamenco. For a start, the city won’t let you. Flamenco in Seville is truly everywhere. Buskers roam between bars with a Spanish guitar, carrying a hat hoping for a few euro. Troupes show up in public squares, toting their own mini wooden dancefloor. Impromptu performances break out in bars, with rowdy jaleos – shouts of encouragement which accompany palmas (hand clapping). Flamenco is a call and response, performers reacting to each other. It is the sound of Seville, and one which will linger in my ears long after the scent of oranges has faded.