How To Spend 48 Hours in Edinburgh

It was our second visit to Edinburgh. The first, back in November 2010, was cut short by a particularly heavy snowfall, but we still managed to visit Edinburgh Castle, Camera Obscura and see plenty of the Royal Mile in our one full day. So, I wondered, will there be enough to see on a return visit? Turns out there’s loads. Combining our two visits, here’s A Brummie Home and Abroad’s suggestions on how to plan the perfect 48 hours in Edinburgh.

Want a hotel recommendation in Edinburgh? Check out my review of No 11 Brunswick Street!

The first 24 hours in Edinburgh

Let’s assume you arrived the day before, you’ve had a good night sleep in your chosen accommodation and you’re ready to rock and roll. Of course, if you spent your arrival night sampling a few wee drams of Scotch whisky then you may not feel as fresh as a daisy. Speaking from experience. Fuel up on caffeine – you have a lot of steps ahead of you today!

Calton Hill

If you’re anything like me, then you’ll feel most enthusiastic about going for a walk first thing in the morning. So start your day right with an early hike up Calton Hill. Calton Hill is one of those viewpoints where you get spectacular panoramic views for minimal effort – my favourite kind. It’s a popular location for tourists and locals alike, but it’s a nice big open space so you can escape the crowds. You can’t miss the monuments, from the National Monument of Scotland (aka Scotland’s disgrace, or Scotland’s folly) to the towering Nelson monument.

Fancy something a little more strenuous? Arthur’s Seat rises 820 feet above Edinburgh, offering even more spectacular views of the city and beyond.

Princes Street, Scott Monument and The Mound

Princes Street sits between Edinburgh’s Old and New Towns, with Princes Street Gardens a colourful, flower-filled barrier between the two. The Scott Monument – did I mention that Edinburgh likes its monuments? – pierces the sky, with a 290 step climb for more spectacular views across the city.

If you have time – or it’s a rainy day – then why not pop into the Scottish National Gallery. Admission is free (although charges may apply for some touring exhibitions). Continue your climb towards the castle via The Mound. Take a breather from the sharp ascent to admire the instagram-worthy exterior staircases and doors of Ramsay Garden.

Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh Castle – one of Edinburgh’s most iconic landmarks – sits atop a long-dormant volcano and dominates the city’s skyline. It is the most besieged fortress in Europe, facing a series of hostile attacks in its long history; these days, the visitors are much more likely to be clutching audio guides and cameras. Unsurprisingly, Edinburgh Castle is the city’s most popular attraction so make sure you book an advance ticket to avoid the queues. Adult tickets are £19 online or £21 on the gate.

The Scotch Whisky Experience

If you’re going to indulge in the Scottish pastime of imbibing a dram or two of whisky then it makes sense to learn a little about the history, distilling process and the distinct differences between the key Scotch whisky regions. The Scotch Whisky Experience has one of the world’s largest whisky collections, holding several world records (including for the smallest bottle!). You don’t even have to like the stuff to enjoy the tour – non whisky drinkers are warmly welcomed (as are kids, who get the opportunity to sample another traditional Scottish beverage instead: Irn Bru).

Tickets start from £19 per adult for the Silver tour; we took the Gold tour (£32 per adult) which includes a tasting tray of 4 regional single malts. You can purchase tickets for the Scotch Whisky Experience here.

Want to read about our visit to the Scotch Whisky Experience? Then click here!

Royal Mile

The Royal Mile connects two of Edinburgh’s most significant attractions – Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Technically it’s a Scottish mile (1.1 English miles), and takes in numerous passageways and areas which branch off the central artery of the Old Town. The Royal Mile is lined with pubs, restaurants, souvenir shops and whisky tasting experiences. You’re almost guaranteed to hear bagpipes whilst traversing this route. Along the mile you can find the family-friendly Camera Obscura and World of Illusions, St Giles Cathedral, the home of 15th century Puritan reformer John Knox and the 17th century Cannongate Kirk.

Palace of Holyroodhouse

Located at the other end of the Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle is Holyroodhouse, an official Royal residence in the shadow of the mighty Arthur’s Seat. You can book a tour to explore the Palace, focusing on the history and the famous figures that have walked it’s hallowed halls. Advance tickets for Holyroodhouse can be purchased to avoid waiting in line, from £17.50 per adult.

The ancient ruins of Holyrood Abbey can also be explored, with wardens clad in traditional Stewart tartan offering free tours. Holyrood Park is also home to the Scottish Parliament, a controversial building that locals love to hate. You can book a free of charge ticket for a guided tour (Mondays & Fridays only), or if parliament is sitting you can access the public viewing gallery.

Day 2 of your 48 Hours in Edinburgh

You’ll probably be a little footsore this morning. Those Edinburgh hills play havoc with the knees, and the cobbles play havoc with your ankles. But slap on the Band Aids- let’s head out for Day 2!

Stockbridge

It’s time to head out of the city centre, just a little, to the neighbourhood of Stockbridge. Stockbridge has a bohemian vibe, with lots of upmarket shops and a plethora of independent cafes and bars. There also some excellent well-stocked charity shops specialising in books and music if searching for hidden treasures is your bag. We stopped for a coffee at Soderburg Bakery, which has a number of other locations around Edinburgh.

Water of Leith Walkway

If you gravitate towards rivers and canals when on a city break, you’re in luck in Edinburgh. The Water of Leith walkway spans 13 miles in total, flowing from Balerno to Victoria Bridge in Leith, where the water eventually joins the North Sea. It’s a pleasant way to walk between Stockbridge and Dean Village (or vice versa). Don’t be alarmed if you spot a figure or two in the water along the way. There are 6 Antony Gormley statues along the entire trail; four which can can be found in the waterway itself, behind the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, Stockbridge, Powderhall and Bonnington.

Dean Village

The first time I saw photographs of Dean Village, I swore I was looking at some cute little town in Germany, or Luxembourg’s Barrio Grund. Striking yellow and white buildings alongside a tranquil waterway. Yet this quaint former mining village is just a 20 minute walk from the hustle and bustle of busy Princes Street. Bridges criss-cross the Water of Leith, and away from the water, pretty houses with vibrant floral displays line cobbled streets. We found the best views at the bottom of Hawthornbank Lane.

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

If you like a bit of Picasso or Dali then you can find both at the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, which is a short walk from Dean Village. The gallery consists of two buildings; when we visited Modern Two was closed for the installation of an upcoming Barbara Hepworth exhibition. We spent an hour or so sheltering from the drizzle in Modern One, critiquing the art and languishing over coffee and cake in the café. General admission is free, although there may be a charge for some exhibitions.

Grassmarket

From the gallery, take a stroll through the West End and Haymarket. If you fancy a drink of the alcoholic variety, I highly recommend making a pit stop at The Hanging Bat on the Lothian Road. Grassmarket is a medieval market square in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle; in fact there is still a Grassmarket Market held every Saturday. I am assured that executions no longer take place here, although old-fashioned pubs such as the Last Drop are said to be haunted by tormented spirits. From here you can explore the curving, colourful West Bow and Victoria Street, allegedly the inspiration for Rowling’s Diagon Alley. Or continue up Candlemakers Row, where you’ll eventually make the acquaintance of Edinburgh’s most faithful friend, Greyfriars Bobby.

Leith

From the Old Town, make your way via George IV Bridge, descending the New Steps near Waverley Station, across to South David Street, from where you can get a bus to Leith. In all honesty, you could miss Leith out if you already have a packed schedule, unless you have specific eating or drinking plans at The Shore. Ocean Terminal is simply a shopping centre, and you can’t actually see the Royal Yacht Britannia unless you’re planning to visit the Royal Yacht Britannia (£18.00 per adult).

From Leith you can catch a bus back to Edinburgh New Town, or take a stroll down Leith Walk. At the moment, Leith Walk to York Place is a construction site due to the tramway extension. Anyone from Birmingham will be all too familiar with this sight. There are plenty of places to eat and drink in Edinburgh’s New Town – my top recommendations are Bonnie & Wild for casual dining, The Keller for beer, Hoot the Redeemer for cocktails and The Dome for a special meal.

Getting Around Edinburgh

Edinburgh is  surprisingly compact for a capital city, which makes it pleasingly walkable. Even to the top of a volcano. It is a hilly city though, so leave the heels at home (lads) and pack comfy shoes for pounding those streets. Of course, sometimes you just don’t want to walk. Luckily, Edinburgh is serviced by a frequent and reliable public transport service.

Getting to Edinburgh

Edinburgh’s airport is located approximately 30 minutes from the city centre. The Airlink 100 express bus runs to and from the city every twelve minutes (Adult tickets are £4.50 single, £7.50 return), or you can hop on a tram (Adult tickets are £6.50 single, £9.00 return). A taxi will cost around £15.

https://www.edinburghairport.com/transport-links

Right in the heart of the capital is Waverley train station, connected to most cities in the UK. However, train travel in the UK is ridiculously expensive – and notoriously unreliable. We chose to drive to Edinburgh; from Birmingham this took about 6 hours excluding a couple of stops. City parking is expensive; we rented a car parking space for three days through Your Parking Space.

When to visit Edinburgh

The highest number of visitors to Edinburgh – ergo the highest accommodation prices – are in the summer months, particularly during festival season in August. We found April to be a perfect time to visit. Festive Edinburgh is also beautiful with its Christmas markets and famous Hogmany celebrations, but again, it’s more expensive – and you’re also at the mercy of the Scottish weather. As we found out on our previous trip, where we had to leave earlier than planned because of unexpected heavy snowfall. Then again, it’s Scotland – cold, miserable weather can strike at any time. Including April.

Is 48 hours long enough to explore Edinburgh? 48 hours wasn’t long enough for us to tick of all the food and drink establishments on my list, never mind all of the other sights. This was our second trip to the city, so we didn’t do Edinburgh Castle or the Camera Obscura this time round, but certain things are worth revisiting every trip. Like strolling through Princes Gardens or window-shopping on the Royal Mile. There’s definitely plenty to fill another trip!

Visiting Edinburgh soon? Save this blog post for later!