Birmingham’s Frankfurt Christmas Market – Love It or Hate It?
Updated for 2023!
Birmingham’s famous Frankfurt Christmas Market is back in town. Winding it’s way from the Bull Ring to Victoria Square, the little wooden cabins selling all manner of festive fancies are back. Visitors flock to the city centre to revel in the schnitzel, schnapps and schmaltz. To carouse on the carousel. Whilst local residents and workers try everything they can to avoid the madding crowds. So which camp do I fall into?
I wrote a scathing account of the Frankfurt Christmas Market eight years ago. About the inflated prices. The repetitive tat for sale. The pissed-up, boisterous clientele. And after visiting actual German Christmas Markets back in 2019, I can confirm that inflated prices, repetitive tat for sale and a pissed-up boisterous clientele exist everywhere. So actually, ours is pretty authentic.
And yet every year I find myself drawn in, by the twinkling lights, warming mugs of boozy hot chocolate and gluhwein, and by the dulcet tones of the famous Chris Moose, casting his cervine (yes, I googled the adjective for moose) eye over the five-deep queue at the bar. So it divides opinion, even in me.
Do I hate the way people flock to the market for food and drink, ignoring our own small independent venues that are crying out for business? Yes I do.
Do I love that much-maligned Brum becomes a go-to destination for its Frankfurt Christmas Market, and we therefore get to show off some our other offerings? Yes I do.
Which is why I try and balance a Frankfurt Christmas Market visit with a visit to one of my favourite Birmingham hospitality venues. There are so many amazing independent and local businesses within walking distance of Victoria Square. Between Victoria Square and Cathedral Square (aka Pigeon Park), there’s Purecraft, Java Roastery, Sommar Brewery, The Colmore, Damascena, The Wellington, Medicine Bakery, Indian Streatery, Rudy’s Pizza – these are just the ones I can think of off the top of my head. And this year, many of the independents are joining forces for an additional Christmas market at the cathedral. I for one can’t wait to sup a pint at The Pigeon in the Park pop-up pub. Which will be our family Christmas tongue-twister this year.
Visiting the Frankfurt Christmas Market
My top tips for visiting the Frankfurt Christmas Market? Avoid weekends if you can, but if not, go early. Please don’t take small dogs and expect them not to be stepped on. Leave the car behind and get public transport if you can. Parking in Brum is a pain at the best of times and can be eye wateringly expensive. Keep your belongings safe – don’t give pickpockets an easy opportunity. Much of the market is open-air, so dress accordingly. It’s not much fun in the rain.
Don’t fancy facing the crowds of a Christmas Market? How about Creating That Christmas Market Vibe In Your Own Home?
Birmingham’s Frankfurt Christmas Market – The Details
Open daily, the 2023 Frankfurt Christmas Market runs until Sunday 24th December. On weekdays it opens at 11am, closing at 9pm Monday to Thursday, and 9:30pm on Friday. It opens at 10am on Saturday and Sunday, closing at 9:30pm and 9pm respectively. Stalls run the length of New Street, from outside the Bull Ring and the main market is in Victoria Square in front of the Council House. There’s a new “one beer per person” rule in 2023 to try and prevent underage drinking.
A short distance away is Centenary Square, with it’s ice rink and big wheel. Both are open until 8th January 2024, from 10am-10pm.
Toilet facilities are available on the junction of Victoria Square and Waterloo Street (disabled facilities also available)
The Christmas at the Cathedral Market runs from Wednesday 15th November until Sunday 17th December 2023.
Travelling by train? The Christmas markets are a short distance from Birmingham New Street, Moor Street or Snow Hill. The route around the markets has step-free access to the top of Victoria Square towards the Town Hall.
If you are planning to travel by train, please check for details of the latest round of rail strikes. Although bring stranded in Brum isn’t all bad, I promise
For more information please visit https://thebfcm.co.uk/
I am of a similar opinion. Visit the market but also support your local businesses even if it’s just getting a drink or a coffee.
I used to go every year when I lived in Birmingham – I liked the twinkly lights, a bit of atmosphere. But my goodness, why do people have to get completed sozzled and lairy everywhere….so I’m with you, it’s nice to go but also nice to leave haha!