Sail Away Stories: Exploring Cinque Terre in One Day from La Spezia

Stretching above the crystal blue waters of the Ligurian Sea are the five towns of Cinque Terre. It’s undoubtedly one of the most picturesque spots in Italy. You could spend a week lazing at the beach, hiking between the villages or sampling every restaurant in town. But what if you only have one day? Can you fully explore Cinque Terre in one day? And what about if you arrive by cruise ship?

Mr Fletche and I first visited Cinque Terre as part of our train trip around Italy in 2015. You can find out more about our trip in Beside the Seaside, Train strikes and long hikes: Cinque Terre and Village Hopping and Final Musings: Cinque Terre.

This time we visited as part of our two week Mediterranean cruise departing from Southampton in May 2024. I’ll post more about each destination over the coming weeks but our itinerary also included stops in La Coruña, Palma de Mallorca, Marseille, Barcelona and Cádiz.

**This blog post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you go on to make a purchase or booking after clicking through one of my external links, then I may make a tiny bit of commission, at no extra cost to you!**

Our La Spezia and Cinque Terre Travel Diary

La Spezia was our first port of call on a hat-trick of exhausting shore days, hopping from Italy to France to Spain. After falling in love with the area in 2015 we couldn’t resist a return visit to Cinque Terre to show Ma and Pa Lee just why we loved the region so much.

Cinque Terre is the collective name for the five colourful villages that nestle amongst the rugged cliffs. Part of a UNESCO heritage national park, they are not quite the hidden gems they were on our first visit. From north to south, the five villages of Cinque Terre are:

• Monterosso al Mare
• Vernazza
• Corniglia
• Manarola
• Riomaggiore

Each town has its own character, with panoramic viewpoints to soak up the surroundings. Mr Fletche and I stayed in Monterosso Al Mare on our previous stay, and we spent time in Corniglia. But this time, on such a tight schedule, we decide to focus on just “Tre Terre” – Riomaggiore, Manarola and Vernazza.

Corniglia is probably the most authentic of the towns, and is a lot quieter because of its clifftop location. But this is also the reason we chose NOT to visit with just one day in Cinque Terre. It’s no fun climbing all those steps from the railway station when the sun is beating down. (There is a shuttle bus for those that don’t fancy a workout). If you’re in Cinque Terre for a longer stay, I recommend you don’t miss out on the only non-waterside village.

From La Spezia to Riomaggiore

I flip-flopped on our method of getting from the cruise terminal in La Spezia to Cinque Terre. With it being a Sunday, and a National Holiday (Festa della Republica) in Italy, I was unsure whether the trains would be running as per the website timetable. So we decide instead to take the ferry, a longer journey, but definitely the more scenic. If I hadn’t flip-flopped, we could have probably taken the 09:15am ferry. As it was, we had to wait for the 10:15am ferry, losing valuable exploring time.

The ferry from La Spezia to Riomaggiore was €22 per person. An all day hop-on hop-off ferry ticket would have been better value at €41 but the schedule didn’t work with our limited time ashore. The plan is to take the train, from Riomaggiore to Vernazza, then to Manarola and back to La Spezia.

Our ferry to Riomaggiore takes just over an hour. Mr Fletche and I soak up the sunshine at the rear of the boat, whilst Ma and Pa Lee seek the shade inside. Most people piled onto the upper deck, meaning it got very crowded very quickly. I’m glad we managed to secure our prime spots early.

In Riomaggiore, the buildings are stacked closely together, weaving up into the hills above so this is a sight worth seeing from the ferry. The harbourfront itself is very small – which is why the best pictures of the town are often from the water. There’s a bit of a scramble to get off the ferry, and the queue for passengers waiting to embark seems to contain more than those leaving. The exit/entrance to the ferry in Riomaggiore is via one narrow pathway with steps built into the cliffside – one to be aware of if you have mobility issues.

With a tight schedule to stick to, after a quick wander around, we head towards the train station to check that trains are running. They are, so we’re back on plan. We stop off at the ticket office. We’re planning on taking three train journeys; at €10 per trip it makes sense to purchase a travel card instead. The 1 day Cinque Terre travel card is €32,50 – or €27 for the septuagenarians amongst us. I moved Pa Lee’s birthday forward by 16 days. Frustratingly, our travel tickets were not checked once.

Riomaggiore to Vernazza

In my humble opinion, Vernazza is the prettiest of the villages. The “meal” we always mention most when reminiscing about our first Cinque Terre visit is our Manarola picnic lunch of fresh-from-the-oven focaccia and giant bottles of Birra Moretti. We recreate this this time round in Vernazza, sitting on a step with an alfresco lunch courtesy of Panificio Focacceria.

The main street leads from the train station directly down to the harbour. One of the best views of Vernazza – one we didn’t get this time – is from the hiking trail towards Monterosso Al Mare. On our first visit we walked from Monterosso and the stunning view of Vernazza from above was what kept us going when we were flagging. That and the thought of a nice cold Aperol Spritz.

Vernazza to Manarola

Speaking of Aperol Spritz, a seafront bar was our first stop after getting off the train at Manarola. Mainly because by now we are all desperate for the loo. We find the last available table outside Bar La Plancia – a sticky post-it note is given to us when our order is taken; this is our “customer pass” to use the restroom!

Manarola is my favourite of the Cinque Terre towns. Although there’s no beach, there are plenty of access points to swim in the blue Ligurian Sea, and rocks to bask on. It’s also fun watching the daredevils jump from the rocks into the crystal clear waters!

It’s one of the hillier towns, but this also means there are some beautiful view points. The Nessun Dorma restaurant has a spectacular terrace but there’s also a public picnic area directly above it for the same views with zero price tag attached! Google location here.

If you have a longer stay, Manarola is the perfect place for sunset. Do as the locals do and settle down on the rocks with a bottle of red wine, bread and olives for an idyllic picnic. You could even book a sunset cruise tour with aperitivo!

Manarola to La Spezia

Keeping one eye on the train schedule, we make our way back to the station. It really is a whistle-stop tour, but the towns themselves don’t have tons of stuff to do so I don’t feel like we’re missing out on much. Our final train of the day whisks us back into La Spezia station.

We have a vague idea of the direction of the cruise terminal. Luckily it is well signposted, and the walk takes you through the town past some pretty architecture. We stop for a gelato on the way back – you can’t visit Italy without gelato. La Spezia itself has plenty of charm, and is definitely somewhere to consider as a base should we return for another stay in the region.

We head back to Arvia, ready to move on to our next destination and another country – Marseille.

You can find all my thoughts on sailing on P&O Arvia in my detailed review here! I have also blogged separately about the drinking and dining options aboard.

Getting Around Cinque Terre

There are three main ways of getting around Cinque Terre – by train, by boat or hiking. Or a combination of the three. We started our journey at the cruise terminal in La Spezia. The ferry is a 10 minute walk from the cruise ship terminal, or the train station is a pleasant 25 minute walk through La Spezia centre (or €15 by taxi).

Cinque Terre by train

Train strikes notwithstanding, the fastest way to travel between La Spezia and Levanto is by rail. It’s a short hop between each village and apart from Corniglia, all the trains stop near the centre of the town. The Cinque Terre Express runs every 20 minutes, and into the evening too. Not every train stops at every station so make sure you check before you board.

If you’re planning on making at least three journeys by train then it works out cheaper to purchase a Cinque Terre card than to purchase individual tickets for each journey. Single train tickets are between €5-€10 depending on the time of year. The day pass also entitles you to free of charge access to the public toilets are stations, but we discovered the queues were incredibly long!

As with all train travel in Italy, remember to validate your ticket at the station to avoid the wrath of the conductor and a hefty fine. No-one checked our tickets at all this time but I’ve seen conductors along this route and on other train journeys in Italy before. Popular tourist areas such as Cinque Terre do unfortunately attract pickpockets and scammers around the stations so be travel-savvy and keep an eye on your belongings at all times.

Trains run between the end of March and the beginning of November. For most up to date fares and timetables, visit the Cinque Terre website. The timetables are easy to understand, and trains are surprisingly reliable. Even “train strikes” don’t necessarily mean “train strikes”.

Cinque Terre by boat

The ferry is an amazing way to see the villages stacked up on the cliffs and gives you a different perspective of the famous coastline. You can find out more here.

The ticket office and ferry docking point is just a 10 minute walk from the cruise terminal in La Spezia. The first ferry is at 9:15, and takes just over an hour to reach Riomaggiore (€22 for a single ticket), or two hours to reach Monterosso (€30) . A single ticket from La Spezia to Vernazza is €15 or Riomaggiore is €10. Single ferry tickets between Vernazza/Manarola/Riomaggiore are €10-€15.

A “hop on hop off” ferry with unlimited rides costs €41. If you have the luxury of a full day in Cinque Terre – and you’re not on a cruise ship timetable – this is a great option.

Hiking in Cinque Terre

In days gone by it was possible to hike between all the villages on an 11km trail. Unfortunately some portions of the trail are now closed due to erosion. Make sure you check beforehand which paths are accessible. The paved section between Riomaggiore and Manarola known as Via dell’Amore (the Path of Love) only re-opened in 2024. This is the shortest trail between any of the Cinque Terre villages.

You will need to purchase a Cinque Terre Trekking Card if you intend to hike between villages. This fee goes towards the maintenance of the trails. An adult trekking card costs between €7,5 and €15 depending on the time of year. The hiking trails are free in winter. If you purchase the Cinque Terre Treno Card for train travel, this includes access to the paid trails.

If you fancy doing a guided hike, this tour, starting in La Spezia takes in the trails from Manarola to Corniglia, as well as visits by train to Vernazza and Riomaggiore.

Other Things to See and Do with One Day in La Spezia

La Spezia is a charming port city in Liguria which serves as a gateway to Italian destinations such as Cinque Terre, Pisa and Florence. Whilst Cinque Terre is a popular destination for cruise ship visitors, there are other options for a day ashore. The Gulf of La Spezia has inspired innumerable artists, so much so that it has become known as “Golfo dei Poeti” – the Gulf of Poets. It stretches from Portovenere all the way to Lerici and Tellaro.

Whilst the glamourous “5 towns” beckon, La Spezia itself is a beautiful coastal town which shouldn’t be overlooked. It’s the perfect place to relax and soak up la dolce vita, sipping coffee and snacking on pastries, taking in the waterfront on the lungomare and strolling through I Giardini Pubblici. Take the elevators up to Castel di San Giorgio for panoramic views of the city before descending the historic stairways.

Portovenere is another Ligurian gem. A picturesque bus ride (€2 each way) will take you to this beautiful UNESCO World Heritage town which rivals those of the nearby Cinque Terre for incredible scenery. A tangle of narrow streets tumble down to the calata, where you can find a plethora of waterfront bars, restaurants, shops and the narrow beach. Excursion boats are queueing up to transport passengers across to the island of Palmaria.

Trips & Tours during your one day in La Spezia

If you prefer to take an organised tour during your day in La Spezia how about this one which takes in four of the five Cinque Terre towns by train? It’s even tailored toward cruise ship passengers and should have you back at La Spezia Cruise Terminal with plenty of time to spare.

You can find lots of hints and tips here on how to plan your perfect port day independently!

From La Spezia Cruise Port: A slice of Pisa

Although it’s possible to travel to Florence from La Spezia. I wouldn’t recommend trying to cram Florence’s highlights into a single day – you’ll need at least 48 hours to see the best of Florence. Pisa is more doable in a day, although I’d recommend booking a cruise excursion rather than doing it independently. Our cruise excursion buses were actually delayed travelling back due to an accident on the roads; an independent operator won’t be able to stop your ship from sailing if you’re running late!

If you do decide to do the journey yourself, it’s a 45-60 minute train journey to Pisa. La Spezia train station is a 20 minute walk from La Spezia Cruise terminal. Your first stop will be to see famous Leaning Tower – get off the train at Pisa S Rossore. It’s close to Miracle Square so it won’t take long before you’re recreating those famous poses propping up the tower or holding it in the palm of your hand.

We travelled from Florence to La Spezia via Pisa by train on our 2015 Italian Trip. You can read more about travelling by train in Italy here!

Final Thoughts: One day in La Spezia and Cinque Terre

It was noticeably busier on this, our second, visit to Cinque Terre. It’s the place where I really felt the challenges of over-tourism, not helped by the swell of the area’s population due to cruise ship passengers. A problem of which we were admittedly a part.

With barely 8 hours ashore, it is impossible to scratch the surface of Cinque Terre. I recommend a minimum of 2 full days to get to know this stunning area. Even longer would allow you to explore the surrounding area and immerse yourself into la dolce vita.

I definitely recommend a longer stay in the area, possibly even using La Spezia, Portovenere or Levanto as a base. This way, you get to experience Cinque Terre in the morning and evenings, when the day tourists have left. Out of season would be even better! Staying in Cinque Terre itself can be quite expensive, so make sure you shop around for the best accommodation deal.

We visited La Spezia as part of our 2 week cruise on P&O Arvia, also stopping in La Coruña, Palma De Mallorca, Marseille, Barcelona and Cadiz. You can find similar P&O Mediterranean cruises here!