From Gdańsk to Sopot: The Polish Riviera
When we planned a December visit to Gdańsk for the Christmas markets I didn’t expect to find us strolling along the Polish Riviera. In fact, who even knew Poland HAD a riviera? Sopot is Poland’s summer retreat, with elegant resorts and white sandy beaches. Just 20 minutes by train, this Baltic seaside resort was a perfect break from the bustling Gdańsk markets.
Gdańsk and Sopot are two of the three cities that make up the metropolitan area called the Tri-City, which stretches along the Gulf of Gdansk. They are all easily connected by train
Ticket to ride?
Trains for Sopot leave regularly from Gdańsk Główny railway station. In fact, Google showed us a baffling array of rail operators. Confident we would work it out from the ticket machines, we were perturbed to discover NO machines in the grand main hall of Gdańsk Główny. We would have to speak to a real-life human being instead. She threw a whole bunch of information at us before issuing our tickets and sending us on our way.
Our SKM train was leaving from Platform 3 in six minutes. Naturally, Mr Fletche decided to find the toilets. Meanwhile, I’m searching for Platform 3 on the departures board, to no avail. Time is ticking. Mr Fletche saunters back, 4,5PLN (87p) lighter. We have 2 minutes to find Platform 3. It turns out we have to go back outside and down the steps. Where we find Platform 3, and the blue and yellow ticket machines. The train is just pulling in to the station. Perfectly timed, as if we had planned it that way.
A return ticket cost 13PLN (£2.50). Don’t skip buying your ticket; there were conductors checking on both journeys, and we watched as one unfortunate passenger was escorted off the train.
Sopot is just 9 stations and a 20 minute ride away. Don’t be confused by Sopot Wyścigi, the stop before. Although if you do find yourself disembarking here by mistake it’s a pleasant 30 minute beachfront stroll to the main centre. Which sounds like something we would do.
Sopot: The Polish Riviera
The moment you step off the train at Sopot, there’s a distinct change in vibe. The bustling urbanity of Gdańsk is replaced with a breezy seaside atmosphere, and I’m instantly reminded of British seaside towns — only a tad more polished, with fewer seagulls stealing chips.
Apart from this one. He’d definitely steal your chips.
A Quirky Sopot Icon: The Crooked House
A short stroll from the station brings you to the town’s famous pedestrian street, Monte Cassino. Lined with cafes, boutiques, and ice cream parlors, it is the heart of Sopot’s social life. It’s here you’ll find Krzywy Domek – the “Crooked House.” This architectural oddity looks like something out of a funfair, with its wavy walls and distorted windows. Actually, its the entrance to a shopping arcade, but the real attraction is its wonky exterior.
Unlike Gdańsk, the Christmas markets aren’t open yet, although little wooden huts are waiting to be occupied on Skwer Kuracyjny, Sopot’s seafront square. In fact, in the few hours we were in Sopot, a fully decorated Christmas tree had sprung up in Plac Przyjaciół Sopotu. The local council had been busy. It looked like the festive switch on would be the first weekend in December.
The Long Walk on the Molo
Sopot’s star attraction is its iconic wooden pier, Molo w Sopocie, said to be the longest in Europe at 511m. We head down the pier, salty sea air filling our lungs. Ahead of us, the Gulf of Gdańsk and the Baltic Sea stretches endlessly. At the end of the pier, we sit on a bench, looking back at the elegant villas on the shoreline. During the summer there is a small admission fee, but it was free to access on this early December weekend.
Sopot’s vast sandy beach spreads out in front of us. I’m not fancying a dip in the chilly Baltic waters, but plenty of locals were splashing about like it was the Caribbean. We were content with people-watching and soaking up the sea breeze from dry land. A boardwalk meanders behind the 4km stretch of sand and dunes, perfect for walking or cycling.
Oh I do like to be beside the seaside! We’ve found surprise beaches elsewhere on our travels including at Den Haag during our Rotterdam City Break and in Porto on another winter anniversary city break
We found open public toilets to be few and far between in Sopot. Strolling away from the centre, many of the beach bars and restaurants are shut up for the winter. Eventually we come across Male Molo. Not wanting to just sneak in and use their loo facilities we stop for a quick beachside beer. We peruse the food menu but we’re planning an early dinner back in Gdańsk so we stick to a liquid lunch.
Farewell to Sopot
In the summer, I can imagine Sopot is a busy and bustling Baltic seaside resort. In early December, it is all a little subdued. Having strolled around most of the town, along tree-lined boulevards, we head back to the station at 2pm to catch the next train back to Gdańsk. Sopot is definitely worth visiting if you have a few days in Gdańsk. Unless you’ve going for a summer beach day you’ll probably only need a few hours, meaning you can make it back to Gdańsk in time for dinner.
Until next time, Sopot. Na zdrowie!
I try my hardest to keep the information in this travel guide up to date; however if you notice anything has changed please let me know! Happy travels, Emmalene
