Montenegro Diaries: A Lake Skadar Boat Trip and Visiting Virpazar

Despite planning a relaxing week in Kotor, it was inevitable we’d get the urge to see some more of the country. After all, we hadn’t gone through the challenges of hiring a car in Montengro for nothing. 64km east of Kotor is Lake Skadar, the largest lake in the Balkans, shared by Montenegro and Albania. The perfect opportunity to get out on the water. Naturally, we (I) decided we should take the most scenic route. One which would take us significantly longer and make Mr Fletche question his role as designated driver.

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Tell me more about Lake Skadar

Lake Skadar is a shimmering expanse of lake, wedged between rocky shores and vast emerald green wetlands, with a dramatic backdrop of peaks. The lake sits in Lake Skadar National Park, a conservation area with rich biodiversity. The lake is actually shared by Montenegro and Albania, with a border running through the middle.

Lake Skadar is one of the biggest bird reserves in Europe, and is included in the list of Wetlands of International Importance. It’s an ornithologist’s (wet) dream, with over 280 bird species recorded in the region, including the rare Dalmatian Pelican. As well as birds, there’s also over 50 fish species found in the lake’s waters.

The gateway to Lake Skadar is the village of Virpazar, on the west bank of the lake. And this is where we start our tour.

Our Lake Skadar boat tour with Kingfisher

A boat tour is the perfect way to explore Lake Skadar. There are lots of options available, but I followed recommendations for a tour run by Kingfisher. This 2 hour tour takes in Fort Lesendro and the Moraca River before enjoying views of Lake Skadar and it’s islands from the water. There’s even a swimming opportunity, and a shot (or two, or three) of the local wine.

Note: Only the wooden fisherman style boats will traverse through the shallow section of the lake amongst the lilypads.

I booked our tour via Get Your Guide on the morning of our trip, and managed to book an early afternoon slot. Which gave us plenty of time to navigate our way from Kotor to the lake via the infamous Kotor Serpentine. When we arrived in Virpazar there were lots of different boat tour companies so we could have left it to chance and booked on the spot. If you’re visiting in peak summertime or on a weekend though I’d definitely recommend booking in advance.

Our tour was €15 (£13) per person. This was for a group guided tour with Kingfisher Boat and Kayak. They also run a semi-private tour (max 8 guests) for €25 (£22) but you’ll need to book a little further ahead for that one. There’s also a 3 hour tour available which includes a visit to Kom Monastery. If you’re – pardon the pun – an early bird, Kingfisher even run an early-morning Lake Skadar Birdwatching Boat Tour.

On arrival at Virpazar (see parking info here) we easily locate the Kingfisher Information Desk at the lakeside and check in. Our Serpentine drive took a little longer than anticipated, so we just have time for a quick iced coffee at Плави 1 before joining our fellow passengers for our tour.

On top of the boat tour, you will need to pay a €5pp National Park fee. We paid this on arrival when we checked in at the Kingfisher Information Desk (cash or card accepted)

The tour is perfectly balanced between education, chat, and time to simply enjoy the spectacular surroundings. Our guide Alex is as interested in finding out about us as we are about Lake Skadar and Montenegro. He points out plants and birds; the “elusive” Dalmation pelican puts on quite a show, parading back and forth alongside the boat before gathering some friends for a spectacular fly-by. Disappointingly, the Dalmatian Pelican does not appear to have spots.

The wine is free-flowing and I took the opportunity of being the non-driver to sample red, white and pink. After all, the surrounding area is an oenophile’s dream, with fertile landscapes perfect for grape vines. We actually picked up the same bottle of rose from a local supermarket for just a few euros. There’s also juice and water available for those that don’t want to get stuck into Montenegrin wine on a boat.

Alex is keen for us all to get that Insta-perfect shot in front of the sea of lilypads that cover the lake’s surface. Our guide becomes photographer, getting willing models to look this way and that. Once we’ve had an impromptu photo shoot we’re taken to a little spot which is perfect for swimming. Mr Fletche and I stay on the boat, although the cool water looks very enticing in this soaring June heat.

Virpazar and beyond: Gateway to Lake Skadar

There’s more to Virpazar than just Lake Skadar. In fact its name loosely means “market town where the rivers meet“. And in July 1941, Virpazar was the site of the first uprising against fascist occupation in Montenegro; a monument at the centre of the town commemorates the date which is now Montenegro’s Independence Day.

The town is surrounded by hiking trails which meander through woodland, and plenty of foothills leading to breath-taking viewpoints. Spectacular panoramas greet those brave enough to drive the hairpin roads, or energetic enough to cycle. There’s an impressive fortress, now home to a restaurant and winery. And there are even a few swimming spots and pebble beaches.

If you fancy getting on the lake under your own steam, you can rent a kayak, either on your own or as part of a guided tour

We’re famished after our boat trip. It’s been a long time since breakfast. Plus I’ve had several thimbles-ful of local wine. Virpazar has a few eating and drinking options; we found the family-run “Domaća Kuhinja (Domestic Cuisine)” tucked beyond the souvenir stalls. The owner was so friendly, giving us recommendations and speaking about their commitment to providing a home-cooked menu using local produce. His mother actually runs the kitchen! It’s cash only, so be prepared – there’s a handy ATM next door.

How to get to Lake Skadar from Kotor

Virpazar lies directly off the M2. It’s a popular summer destination so prepare yourself for some traffic congestion. From Kotor, there’s no direct public transport option so renting a car is the most convenient option.

We rented our hire car through Sixt, with pick up and drop off at Tivat Airport. If you want to read more about what it’s like to hire a car and drive in Montenegro all the details are here. Including driving the Kotor Serpentine 🐍

You can travel by train from Montenegro’s capital Podgorica in about 30 minutes, catching the train departing for Bar. You find the schedule here. Tickets are €2 each way (or €3 for “1st class”). There are also buses available, check out GetByBus for more info.

Parking at Lake Skadar

There’s a large free gravel car park on the E80, just a few minute walk from the lakeside and village of Virpazar. An underpass takes you across the road and underneath the traintrack so you don’t have to play chicken with the traffic or trains. There’s a limited amount of parking in Virpazar itself but to avoid narrow roads and tight manoeuvrings I recommend you stick to stress-free parking on the fringes.

Stress free parking here 📍

Our Lake Skadar boat trip: Reflections

Here are my reflections:

Ha ha, only joking.

I really enjoyed our trip to Lake Skadar. The boat trip was great value for money, with an excellent guide and an unexpected amount of free-flowing local wine. Alex taught us a lot about Lake Skadar and its wildlife; the local region; and the culture and customs of Montenegro as a whole. He was genuinely interested in the guests, and in the similarities and differences within our cultures. I highly recommend Kingfisher for your Lake Skadar boat trip, and a visit to Lake Skadar before more tourists discover it!

Thanks for reading! If you’re planning a Montenegro trip soon get in touch if you have any questions!

I try my hardest to keep the information in this travel guide up to date; however if you notice anything has changed please let me know! Happy travels, Emmalene