Paris Travel Diaries: Exploring Paris

This blog post relates to our Paris City Break, taken in April 2011. We spent our first day exploring Paris by foot.

Awakened by the Sunday morning church bells, we throw open the curtains on this glorious morning. Oh, it’s grey, damp and more than a little drizzly. Looks like we used up all our good weather vouchers on our arrival. Still, today is the day for exploring Paris by foot.

We begin our expedition by strolling down Boulevard Saint-Germain. The road is quiet, and we decide to head off towards the Seine. A cafe on the riverfront provides us with a much needed morning coffee and croissant. It’s here that we realise how expensive soft drinks are here in Paris. It’s cheaper for a glass of wine than a Coca-Cola. However, even for us it’s a little too early to start on the alcohol.

Musee D’Orsay is a beautiful building, located in an old railway station, however its facade is slightly marred by the scaffolding and construction work. It’s like being back in Birmingham. The queues are already snaking onto Quai Voltaire, so we take some pictures from the riverfront and move on.

We carry on to Pont D’Alexandre III, the bridge that connects the Champs Elysees and Hotel Des Invalides. We enjoy taking photographs of the sculptures, and the gorgeous lampposts. I think the lampposts are my favourite part of Paris so far.

The rain is starting to come down a little heavier; time to don a hat. Mr Fletche is shivering in just a jumper. We wander over to the Hotel Des Invalides, wave at Napoleon’s tomb, and continue down Rue De l’Universite, admiring the architecture as we go. The Eiffel Tower MUST be around here somewhere, there have been glimpses over treetops and rooftops. Suddenly there it is, beautifully framed between the buildings ahead of us. As we approach, I am genuinely taken back at its size, all 324m of it, before me. Despite seeing a multitude of pictures, I’m amazed that you can walk under it, and there’s a whole community going on under this immense structure.

I was unable to book tickets online, and reluctant to commit to a timeslot anyway, so we had a look at the size of the queues for an on-the-day ticket. All huge. Even for the stairs-only queue. We decided that the best way to appreciate the Eiffel Tower was from the Trocadero – that iconic view seen in so many photographs. Avoiding the sellers of tat (“Metallic Purple Eiffel Tower keyring anyone?”), we replicated those famous images with the Eiffel Tower ‘legs’ straddling Ecole Militaire in the distance. Big disappointment that the Trocadero fountains were not operational. In fact, the whole area looked slightly like a construction site. Despite demanding fountains like a petulant child, it wasn’t to be so with a last lingering look at the Tour De Eiffel, we carry on our hiking mission, exploring Paris by foot.

Arc De Triomphe is next on the hotspot list. It’s a longer walk than it looks on the map and we’re never quite sure if we’re heading in the right direction. The rain starts again, and we’re are starting to get a little tired and a little hungry. And a little grumpy. Finally, the Arc is in sight, and we shelter under the canopy of some trees to capture some photos and watch the crazy traffic. I can only imagine what it would be like on rush hour on a Monday morning. We enter the underpass, intending to emerge at the Arc – however we find ourselves on the other side of L’Etoile. Not sure if our aching legs could manage the 284 steps to the top, we continue down the Champs Elysees.

Now desperately hungry – man cannot survive on a croissant alone – we stumble upon the George V Cafe on the Champs Elysees. Expecting high prices, we’re pleasantly surprised by the menu and we’re ushered in by a friendly waiter to a seat on the heated terrace. We are amazed at how many tables these cafes and brasseries manage to cram into a small area, and we find ourselves practically seated on top of our neighbours. A glass of wine each, a wonderfully fresh sandwich and an assiette of fries to share, and we are satisfied.

With food – and wine – in our tummies, we continue down the Champs Elysees. It’s nice to walk off our lunch down the tree-lined avenue en route to Place de la Concorde.  Despite always being convinced that I was a tricoteuse in a former life – happily knitting jumpers whilst frequenting public executions – there is no de-ja-vu. Maybe I attended beheadings elsewhere. We continue through the Jardin des Tuileries, admiring the sculptures and once again wondering why none of the fountains are working. Is April ‘fountain-maintenance’ time in Paris?

The Louvre is absolutely huge. I feel overwhelmed from the outside, so I can only guess how one must feel inside. I am guessing that a couple of hours would not do this impressive museum justice… you could surely spend days here. It’s the first Sunday of the month, and admission is free, therefore even mid-afternoon the queues at the pyramid entrance are massive. So once again, we think “maybe next time” and content ourselves with taking photographs of the wonderful architecture. And more lampposts. We can always buy a postcard of the Mona Lisa.

We take a stroll by the Seine, and then across Pont Neuf to Ile de la Cite and Notre Dame. This is probably the only thing I regret not doing on this visit to Paris – climbing the bell tower, communing with the gargoyles & chimères, and doing my best Quasimodo impression.

More photos before heading back to our hotel to give our poor aching legs a break. One soothing bath later, and the muscles have relaxed enough to consider our evening plans. We haven’t particularly explored Paris’ two islands in the stream, so we head back the way we had walked just an hour or so previously. Ile Saint Louis is a charming island which seems far removed from the hustle and bustle in other Paris districts. We press our nose to the window of Berthillon. Surely we need something more substantial than ice-cream for dinner?

We select a brasserie overlooking Pont Saint-Louis and opt for their set menu. See how our prices are coming down from last night’s meal – can we find even cheaper tomorrow night? The food is pleasant – although not up to last night’s standard. A litre of wine is cheaper than two soft drinks, so it seems rude not to partake.

A swift tally of our remaining Euros does not comfort us. A visit to the ATM will be necessary if we intend to eat and drink tomorrow. Paris is an expensive city, particularly where drinks are concerned.  Still, we have enough cash for our final plan for the evening. Yes, it’s touristy but a boat cruise on the Seine is a must. We catch the 10pm Bateaux Vedettes du Pont Neuf cruise. I insist that we sit outside on the top deck. It is freezing. I’m glad I wore a heavier coat tonight, particularly when I find a pair of gloves nestling in the pocket.

Seeing the buildings all lit up at night gives them a somewhat magical quality. Just as we’re setting off on the cruise, in the distance is a twinkling, sparkling Eiffel Tower. By the time we approach the Tower, it has returned to its normal illumination, but I’m happy. The small things delight me. Mr Fletche was not quite so excited

An hour later, shivering and shuddering, we return to Pont Neuf.  It has been such a long busy day that we suggest that we head towards ‘home’. Mr Fletche is intrigued by a little alley he spied on our arrival leading off Quai St-Michel. Within seconds we are swallowed into a wonderfully touristy, colourful, noisy array of souvenir shops, bars and cafes. We have discovered Rue de la Huchette. It is a little like being in a Greek holiday resort, but we vow to explore this area a little bit more tomorrow.

After a battle with the ATM next to the hotel (why did I think that cash machines would somehow work differently to those back in England?), we finally have the Euros to enjoy our final full day in Paris… 

SPOILER ALERT: Mr Fletche falls prey to a “bracelet-man” and I fall prey to automatic toilet doors…