An Epic 7 Days in Puglia: The Heel of Italy’s Boot

Italy has always had a special place in my heart. From Florence to Rome, Verona to Venice, Cinque Terre to the Amalfi Coast, Italy is my favourite country to visit. But it wasn’t until one of my favourite family travel bloggers started posting pictures of her trullo stay last year that Puglia appeared on my radar. And once I started thinking of those conical shaped buildings, I couldn’t stop. And even after a fabulous week in the region – and yes, a stay in one of those trulli – I am still obsessed. If you’re planning a trip to Italy, don’t miss out on the heel of the boot. Here are some amazing suggestions on how to spend 7 days in Puglia!

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Why visit Puglia?

Puglia is beginning to be discovered by tourists. But – for the time being anyway – it is less crowded AND less expensive than other tourist hotspots in the country. From sun-soaked beaches to cities full of history and culture, Puglia boasts an endless list of places to see. And many can be visited on day trips from a single base, so whether you’re staying in a city, on the coast or in the rural Valle D’Itria, there are plenty of places to see. Ideally you’ll want a car to get to some of the more remote areas but there are still plenty of places which are accessible by public transport too.

Puglia is known for its agricultural roots. A road trip will take you through endless olive groves. It’s long coastline means that incredible fresh fish and seafood can be found easily. We explored whitewashed villages and devoured endless plates of Puglian specialities.

Is 7 days in Puglia enough?

A week in Puglia was just enough to get a taster of the region. We could have easily stayed for 2 weeks, spending time in places where we only made a flying visit. There was no time for beach-hopping on the Salento coast, where some of the most beautiful beaches in the region are located, or to visit the very tip of Italy’s heel and stand on the very edge of the country.

But if a week is all you have, I hope this 7 day Puglia itinerary helps you make the most of your trip!

Our 7 days in Puglia itinerary in brief

Arrival: Overnight stay close to Bari Airport
Day 1: Polignano a Mare/Monopoli, stay in Ostuni
Day 2: Lecce & Galipolli, stay in Ostuni
Day 3: Exploring Ostuni
Day 4: Cisternino/Martina Franca/Locorotondo, stay in Alberobello
Day 5: Matera, stay in Alberobello
Day 6: Bari
Day 7: Bari and flight home*

*Or so we thought. Our cancelled flight and subsequent overnight stay in Rome was not part of our planned Puglia itinerary. You can read more about that story here!

Where we Stayed

Il Civico 2, Bari (1 night)
Palazzo Rodio, Ostuni (3 nights)
Trulli a Sud-Est, Alberobello (2 nights)
B&B Murex, Bari (1 night)

Planning your 7 Days in Puglia

Puglia is a surprisingly large region of Southern Italy. It spans 400 kilometres from Foggia in the North to the very tip of the heel at Santa Maria de Leuce. It also lays claim to the the most eastern point in Italy. the “Punta Faci” in the coastal region of Otranto, almost within touching distance of Albania across the Adriatic Sea. The region has two main airports. Flying into Karol Wojtyla Airport in Bari is perfect for exploring the north of the region, whilst Brindisi is ideal if you are planning to spend the majority of your time exploring Lecce and the beaches of Salento. And where you choose to base yourself depends on your main priorities. Do you want to explore towns & cities? Spend time in rural Puglia? Or relax by the sparkling sea?

We visited in September, a gorgeous month for Italian travel. Children are back at school, prices come down and the temperatures are perfect. It was around 27 degrees in the daytime and 18-20 degrees at night. After a dismal UK summer it was wonderful just to feel a little sunshine on our poor Vitamin-D deprived skin. We’ve visited Italy in June before, but over the last couple of years temperatures have soared in Southern Europe in early summer so I’d probably avoid in future.

Where to stay

There are so many beautiful accommodations in Puglia that you may struggle to narrow it down. I loved the look of some of the masserias – our agrotourism stay in Croatia was a Dalmatian roadtrip highlight – but we wanted to stay in places within walking distance of bars and restaurants so that Mr Fletche – designated driver – could enjoy a drink or two of an evening.

Picking a single central base means that you have the freedom to explore countless places. It does mean spending more time travelling each day – although its hardly a chore when the scenery is so beguiling. You may choose to spend some time in the north and some in the south – in which case, flying in and out of the different airports may be a better option. We decided to focus on the Valle D’Itria and stay north of Brindisi, although we did make a couple of day trips south from our base in Ostuni. We designed our itinerary around whitewashed villages, historic cities and scenic landscapes. Perfect for Mr Fletche the photographer, and perfect for me to sample the local food and drink.

Our 7 days in Puglia Itinerary

Arrival Day: Overnight in Bari

Flying from Stansted to Bari thanks to a Ryanair flight, we arrive at Bari Airport late on a Saturday evening. We planned to pick up our rental car from the airport the following morning, so I booked a B&B just a 5 minute taxi ride from the airport.

Travel Tip: If you are staying in a B&B in Puglia, remember that you may not have access to a 24 hour reception, or be able to check in after a certain time. Factor your flight arrival time in when picking your accommodation – we had a very tense hour whilst waiting for a taxi from the airport, convinced that our hosts would not stick around to let us in!

Day 1: Bari to Ostuni, via Polignano a Mare & Monopoli

Our first full day in Puglia sees us picking up our rental car from Bari airport, giving Mr Fletche his first taste of driving in Italy. We make two stops on the way to our first accommodation in Ostuni. The first is the charming seaside town of Polignano a Mare, its famous Lama Monachile beach surrounded by dramatic towering cliffs. Monopoli is a more traditional fishing town, with endless views of the Adriatic, a picturesque port and winding centro storico. It’s a 40 minute drive from Monopoli to Ostuni.

Day 2: Lecce & Gallipoli

On Day 2 we head south to Lecce, known for its ornate baroque buildings, a labyrinthine network of streets and not one, but two Roman ancient theatres. There are plenty of shady spots to shelter from the beating sun and enjoy a Leccese coffee, served over ice and mixed with almond syrup. We really enjoyed Lecce and it would be a great city base for exploring the beaches in the south of Puglia.

You can find out more about our daytrip to Lecce here!

From Lecce, we take the SS101 across the boot’s heel to Gallipoli in the west. It’s a beautiful coastal city, with the old town located on an island connected to the mainland by bridge. There’s a fortress, and a cathedral, and lots of seafront restaurants to enjoy the catch of the day. The golden beach made me want to throw down a towel and soak up the sunshine but sadly we only had a few hours to explore before driving back to Ostuni.

Day 3: Ostuni

On Day 3 we decide to have a break from driving and explore Ostuni – Puglia’s dazzling La Citta Blanca. We stroll between striking whitewashed buildings, getting lost in the maze of alleyways, arches and stairwells. There are plenty of places to linger over a coffee and a pastry in the morning, or an aperitivo and olives in the afternoon. I even get to strike a pose in front of the famous green and blue “Heaven’s Door” – an Instagrammers favourite.

We spend a lazy afternoon chilling by the pool at Palazzo Rodio, and drinking wine on our amazing private terrace. Definitely build a relaxing day into your busy 7 day Puglia itinerary! We seek out sunset views of the city at Piazzetta Martiri delle Foibe before heading back into the maze of the city for dinner under twinkling fairy lights.

Day 4: Ostuni to Alberobello, via Cisternino and Martina Franca

It’s easy to visit the towns of the Valle d’Itria in one day, and Cisternino and Martina Franca were en route to our next accommodation in Alberobello. Located in idyllic countryside, these towns are picturesque gems, worth spending a couple of hours exploring. There are shady narrow alleys, elegant piazze and beautifully decorated facades, with unique bunting strewn between buildings – from watering cans to hats and lampshades. Martina Franca was one of our favourites places in Puglia, and would make an excellent base for an overnight stay.

Instead, we opted to stay on the outskirts of the UNESCO World Heritage town of Alberobello. If Puglia has a tourist trap then this is it. Yet Alberobello is still a must-see sight on your 7 day Puglia itinerary. And if you do want to stay in one of the iconic conical trulli, you can find these dotted all around the Valle d’Itria region.

You can read more about our flying visit through the Valle D’Itria and our stay in Alberobello here!

Day 5: Matera

We decided to visit Matera on a day trip from our Alberobello base. The journey is about 75 minutes, and we cross from Puglia region into Basilicata. Parking in Matera can be tricky so make an early start, and take a spot when you find it! Matera is believed to be one of the oldest inhabited settlements in the world and is another spot that you just can’t miss if you’re spending 7 days in Puglia . The Sassi di Matera is made up of a complex of cave dwellings carved into the mountainside, and buildings tumble down from the cathedral, the highest point of the city.

We spent our evenings strolling around Alberobello, watching as the sun set and lights began to glow in the trulli. There are plenty of places to pick up a bottle of wine and a pastry for the very best kind of self-catering.

Planning a visit to Matera: City of Caves? Read more here!

Day 6: Alberobello to Bari, via Locorotondo

A change in start time for a pre-booked tour meant we had a slightly less relaxing final morning in Alberobello than planned. Instead we headed to Locorotondo, a town in the Valle D’Itria that we had missed from our Day 4 itinerary. Yet another place vying for the title of “Prettiest Town in Puglia”, there are whitewashed buildings, understated churches and belvederes offering panoramic views over olive groves and vineyards.

From Locorotondo we headed to Bari Airport to return our rental car. We then make our way to Bari’s Old Town by taxi – our final Puglian destination. We take a Bari Walking and Street Food Tour which gives us a good introduction to the city through it’s food. Post tour, we wind our way through Bari’s streets, stopping for a drink here and there. Our favourite spot in Bari was the twinkling Largo Albicocca – the “square of lovers”. It’s the perfect place to grab a beer, a slice of pizza and watch the locals do the same.

You can read more about our 24 hours in Bari and about our Bari Street Food Tour here!

Day 7: Exploring Bari and our flight home. Or so we think.

It’s time to say arrivederci to Puglia. Our flight home is at 10pm so we have a full day to explore Bari a little bit more. After checking out of our B&B we store our luggage at a location close to Bari Central Station and then head back to Bari Vecchia to explore. Late afternoon – and with storm clouds looming – we make our way to Bari Airport. Where we end up staying until 7am the following morning thanks to a cancelled flight. A slightly frustrating end to a wonderful 7 days in Puglia. We spend an unexpected Day 8 in Italy travelling by Flixbus to Rome, and eventually flying back to the UK on Day 9.

Our 7 Days in Puglia Road Trip Map

Would I have changed anything about our trip?

With hindsight, there are a few things I would have done differently. Instead of Alberobello, we would have preferred to stay in Cisternino or Martina Franca. This would have given us a more authentic Italian experience than Alberobello, which although magical was definitely the most touristy place we visited. An overnight stay in Matera would have allowed us to experience the sassi with less daytrippers and better light. Traversing deep into the sassi during the midday sun is quite exhausting.

And finally, I got our Bari plans a little wrong, splitting the stay with a night at the start and a night at the end. If we had picked up our rental car straight away then we wouldn’t have had the hassle of trying to get a taxi from and then back to Bari Airport. And keeping the car until the final day would have given us a little more freedom as our flight (if it had taken off) wasn’t until 10pm.

Getting to and around Puglia

The main airports for Puglia are Karol Wojtyla Airport (Bari) and Brindisi. With no direct or well-priced flights from Birmingham, we flew from Stansted to Bari with Ryanair. Our flights for two were £620, including priority boarding and 2 cabin bags each. Bari is just under 3 hours flight from the UK.

If you’re travelling from Rome. the direct high-speed train takes just over four hours. Or a Flixbus takes around six hours. Bari is the best option if you are planning to travel mainly by train. There’s is an Airport Shuttle Bus (Autoservizi Tempesta) which costs €4,15, or Bus #16 connects Bari airport with the city centre, with a travel time of around 50 minutes. Or you can travel by Bari Airport train (Ferrovia Metropolitana FM2, Yellow) – this is quicker but may require a connection, and are a little more expensive at €5,00.

The best way to get around Puglia is by car. We rented a car in advance from Thrifty, using Expedia to get cashback. This cost us £280 for 6 days hire. We rented the smallest car we could get. Our little Fiat was perfect for driving through narrow streets and for squeezing into tight parking spaces!

I wrote all about what it’s like to drive in Puglia here – according to Mr Fletche. I’ve also written previously about travelling by train in Italy!

Final thoughts on 7 days in Puglia

Puglia exceeded all of our expectations. Every time I travel to Italy I claim to have found my favourite place – and this trip was no different. I was amazed by the scenery, the more traditional way of living, the plethora of labyrinthine alleyways – and did I mention the incredible food?

We found public transport in Bari frustrating. Taxis at the airport late at night were rarer than unicorn poop, and there was no organised taxi rank. The bus is infrequent, and not all services run on a Sunday. The flight cancellation due to bad weather was unavoidable, and unluckily for us the same storms caused damage on the train track from Lecce to Bari – the exact train we needed to get us to Rome.

Want to read more about our Bari travel woes? There’s a whole post about it here!

There’s so much to see in this region. I could have planned a 7-day, 10 day or 14-day itinerary in Puglia quite easily. As my list of sights and restaurants for places we were only visiting for an hour or two can attest to. 10 days or 14 days could have given us a little more time to relax and enjoy our accommodation a bit more, and given Mr Fletche a break from driving. But however long you spend in Puglia, you are sure to fall in love with this region.

Are you planning a trip to Puglia? Do you have any questions? Let me know in the comments!