A Day Ashore in Charming Cádiz

Shabby narrow streets and worn whitewashed buildings. The sound of flamenco. The scent of fresh fish in the air. The Andalusian city of Cádiz may be touted as “the cruise port for Seville” but why travel an hour and a half inland when this coastal city is begging to be explored? We had just one day ashore in charming Cádiz and we were keen to spend the day exploring it’s narrow streets, markets and beaches. And sampling some local food and drink, naturally.

Cádiz was the last stop on our Med cruise so Mr Fletche and I – with Ma and Pa Lee in tow – were looking forward to sampling Spanish hospitality – and Spanish sunshine – for the final time before heading back to the UK.

We spent a day ashore in Cádiz as part of our 2 week cruise on P&O Arvia. We also visited La Coruña, Palma De Mallorca, La Spezia, Marseille and Barcelona. You can find similar P&O Mediterranean cruises here!

Cádiz is located on a narrow peninsular in Andalucia. It boasts a rich combination of European and Moorish heritage, like its neighbours Seville and Cordoba an d is thought to be Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited city, founded in 1000BC. Cádiz claim that flamenco originated in the city – although inhabitants of Seville will strongly debate that fact.

You can check out my blog post on Seville: The Birthplace of Flamenco here!

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Our Cádiz Travel Diary

Cádiz is one of those cruise terminals right in the heart of the city. This means that within 10 minutes we go from cabin to Plaza de España. This is the perfect place to start exploring on our day ashore in Cádiz . The Monument here commemorates the signing of the Spanish constitution in 1812.

Unlike some of the port stops on our trip which had required meticulous planning, our only plan for Cádiz was to roam the streets, soaking up the atmosphere. We stroll down narrow shady streets, designed to keep the residents cool during the temperatures, before emerging onto wide plazas. Shuttered bars and restaurants hint at a vibrant nightlife once the sun goes down. At 10am however, all is eerily quiet. It gets busier as we arrive at Plaza San Francisco and wind our way to Plaza de San Juan de Dios. This is the heart of Cádiz. The bustling plaza is dominated by the impressive Ayuntamiento de Cádiz (City Hall). You’ll find the tourist office here, and free walking tours start from here too.

We didn’t take a walking tour on this occasion, but look out for this highly rated Free our of Cádiz: It’s History, Anecdotes and Curiosities via GuruWalk

It’s time to stop for a coffee. There are plenty of places to choose from on Plaza de la Catedral, and the impressive Catedral De Cádiz stands tall over the pretty square. The cathedral is known for its golden cupola and imposing bell towers. We don’t enter, but admission tickets are €7,00 for adults (€6,00 for 65+). This includes an audio guide and access to the Torre de Poniente, with panoramic views across the city and coast. Next door to the cathedral is Iglesia de Santiago Apostol, a 17th century church with a distinctive vertical striped exterior.

Plaza de la Catedral is also the last known location of our fancy yellow water bottle. By the time we realise we’ve left it on the table, and Mr Fletche does a dash back, it’s gone. We put it on the list of items lost abroad. This list includes Mr Fletche’s jacket in Bari and my pink baseball hat in Death Valley. Pa Lee also reminds us of the time he lost his hat outside a chip shop in Crewe. I remind him that if he hadn’t screwed up his hat in used fish and chip papers he may not have thrown it into the bin.

This area of Cádiz is definitely busier. We stroll through the colourful Plaza Topete – also known as Plaza de las Flores, because of the flower vendors. If you love exploring food markets – like I do – then Mercado Central Cádiz is a great place to visit. It’s a feast for all the senses. Housed inside a former convent, with colourful murals on the facade, it’s the perfect place to sample local specialities, from jamon and chorizo to sherry and caña. We’re not quite ready for lunch yet, so we leave the amazing smells behind and head to the beach.

A day ashore in Cádiz: On the beach

Cádiz has a number of beaches located along its western coast, open to the Atlantic ocean. La Caleta is the smallest but in the most favourable position, sheltered in a natural harbour between two castles, the star-shaped Castillo de Santa Catalina, and Castillo de San Sebastian, connected to the mainland via a walkway snaking out towards the rocky headland.

If you know your James Bond references, this is where Halle Berry emerged from the waves in Die Another Day.

Time for lunch in Cádiz 

It’s barely noon, and we don’t want anything too heavy for lunch. We stroll down the cobbled Calle Virgen de la Palma, palm tree lined and colourful. Restaurants are just starting to set out their tables for lunchtime service, under huge white umbrellas emblazoned with Cruzcampo branding – the ever-present beer offering in these parts. Prices here seem a little higher than other spots I’d noticed previously. This shabby fisherman’s quarter now has quite the reputation as a culinary corner.

We head instead away from the coast, weaving our way back towards Mercado Central. We know we can definitely pick up a light lunch here. On the way however, we have our head turned by an flower-lined outdoor seating area in Callejón Cardoso – the terrace of Wasa Pasarratos Bar. Shaded by palm trees, it feels like an authentic neighbourhood joint, with locals greeting each other and pulling up a chair outside their stores.

There’s no “tourist” version of the menu here, so Mr Fletche and I order a selection of small plates for the table and hope for the best, using some of the knowledge we gained on our Seville tapas crawl. There are definitely thin slices of salted pork, croquettes stuffed with cheese, and a tuna dish which has fish-phobic Ma Lee digging in for more. The chicharrón that we ordered don’t ever materialise, but to be honest we’re stuffed and we’re not charged for the dish anyway. Each dish is €3-4 each, and with drinks, our lunch for four people comes to less than €30.

We begin our slow stroll back to the cruise terminal. Not before we pause under the citrus trees on Plaza San Augustin for a final sangria on Spanish soil. Our days ashore in the Med are now over. We have two sea days and then we’ll be back on UK shores once more.

You can find all my thoughts on sailing on P&O Arvia in my detailed review here! I have also blogged separately about the drinking and dining options aboard.

A day ashore in Cádiz through the lens of Mr Fletche

Final Thoughts: One day ashore in Cádiz 

Cádiz is definitely a place that deserves a longer stay. I’d have loved to spend time winding my way around Mercado Central, sampling local delicacies from each stall. A longer stay would give us the opportunity to catch a flamenco show, climb Torre Tavira for spectacular views, or do a sherry tasting tour at nearby Jerez de la Frontera. Or even a relaxing beach day – something Mr Fletche and I rarely build into city trips! I saw plenty of signs that sleepy Cádiz would come alive after sundown, with a similar vibe to that which we loved in Seville. Cádiz is definitely one to revisit.

We sailed on a two week Mediterranean cruise departing from Southampton in May/June 2024. I’ve posted about each destination now, including our stops in La Coruña, Palma de Mallorca, La Spezia, Marseille and Barcelona.