I Heart Hartington: A Peak District Minibreak

At the end of June, we took ourselves off for a little Peak District minibreak. It was just what we needed the weekend after learning that Mr Fletche’s sister had sadly passed away. Fresh air, country pubs and the opportunity to process our grief. Mr Fletche scoured Airbnb and found a little cottage in the village of Hartington, a 90 minute drive from Birmingham. Perfect for a Friday afternoon getaway – laptop off and straight into the car. No annual leave required.

**This blog post may contain affiliate links. This means that if you go on to make a purchase or booking after clicking through one of my external links, then I may make a tiny bit of commission, at no extra cost to you!**

The search for Friday fish and chips

We pull into our off-road parking spot early evening. I do the obligatory “opening every drawer and cupboard” and congratulate myself on remembering to bring essential cuppa-making ingredients (after the Mousehole debacle). It’s time to dump our weekend bags and head out for a drink at one of the two local pubs, The Devonshire Arms. We spot the fish and chip van outside – that’s tea sorted. We’re tempted by a second drink but sensibly decide to get some food first. Maybe we’ll pop back for another pint later.

The “Cash Only” sign gives us reason to pause. Other than a supermarket trolley pound and a mysterious 50c coin that I’ve been carrying around since Dublin, my purse is empty. In fact, I rarely even carry a purse; instead waving Apple Pay around with abandon. I can rely on Mr Fletche to have a pocket full of cold hard cash. But no, he’s used it earlier in the week and hasn’t had chance to replenish the funds. I remember seeing a sign for an ATM. It’s in the village store. Which, with it being 7:30pm, is naturally closed.

Pub meal it is then. We return to the Devonshire Arms, only to find that there’s a cat in hell’s chance of getting a table without a reservation. They suggest the Charles Cotton across the road. They have also suggested this to the couple in front of us. Who, of course, secure the final table. It’s starting to rain. And I’ve left my umbrella in the Devonshire Arms. With Plan A and Plan B out the window we desperately need a Plan C.

There’s a fish and chip ship in nearby Longnor. It closes at 8pm. It is a 12 minute drive away. And it is now 7:50. We expand our search. There’s a fish and chip shop in Ashbourne. A 20 minute drive away. And it’s open until 9pm. Glad we only had that one drink we get back in the car and retrace our steps to Ashbourne. We pull up right outside the fish and chip shop. Only to be greeted with yet another “Cash Only” sign. Thankfully, Ashbourne is a little more forthcoming in terms of cash machines so we’re FINALLY able to withdraw some cash and get our hands on some grub.

And were they worth it? A 40 minute, 22 mile round trip? Nope.

Hartington to Milldale Circular Walk

The sun is shining, the rain has abated to an intermittent drizzle and the wind is no longer gale force. This constitutes a successful summers day in the UK. So we’re off on a hike. We’re out of practice with this prepping for a hike lark, forgetting to even pack the basic ingredients for the obligatory cheese and ham cob lunch. Makes me wonder how we ever made it up a mountain.

We begin our walk behind the Hartington Farm Shop & Café. I’m almost swayed by the aroma of a cooked breakfast but the granola and berries in my tummy remind me that I’ve had breakfast. Taking note of the opening times for tomorrow, we follow the public footpath behind the buildings and start our walk uphill.

With the River Dove on our right, we follow a well-marked grassy track through Beresford Dale to Wolfscote Dale, where it’s said that wild wolves once roamed. Our route takes us into the Manifold Valley, where cliffs loom above, pockmarked with mysterious caves. The river twists and turns, gouging a deep path through the limestone.

Our original plan was to walk to Wolfscote Dale, and then follow the public footpath up Biggin Hill before returning to Hartington. But when we reach this point it feels like we’ve hardly been walking any time at all so we decide to carry on to Milldale. Here we know we can pick up a coffee and an ice cream from Polly’s Cottage – and pay a much welcome visit to the loo as well.

From Milldale, we could have carried on to Dovedale, but sensibly decide at this point to start making our way back. It’s an easy walk, with a few gentle ascents on the return leg as we head over Biggin Hill. The final stretch along Reynalds Lane becomes a little tedious, endlessly traversing a narrow path between stone walls with farmland on each side. Cows pop their heads up every so often, a break from eating, to see who’s disturbing their peace. And peaceful it is. Considering the weather, sunny with only the lightest of winds and an occasional threat of drizzle, there are remarkably few others walking this trail.

We have vague evening plans. Not wanting to be left famished again, I had booked a table at the Devonshire Arms for dinner. They only had an early reservation available but after a shared sandwich and bag of crisps we’re ready to eat. After much-needed food and wine, Mr Fletche decides to go for another stroll up the hill. I however have other ideas. The bath at the cottage is calling me. I’ve even brought bubble bath and Richard Osman with me for the occasion.

(Note to readers unfamiliar with A Brummie Home and Abroad. I love a bath but don’t have one at home so purposely look for cottages where I can indulge. The aforementioned Mousehole cottage had an ace bath, which almost made up for the lack of tea and coffee).

Staying in Hartington

Our Friday night supper woes aside, Hartington was a great base for a couple of nights in the Peak District. There are two pubs in the village which both serve food (booking definitely advised) and a few cafes and tearooms perfect for breakfast or lunch. Hartington lies off the A50 Ashbourne to Buxton Road, and is a short drive from many of the Derbyshire Dale’s most scenic areas.

Our AirBnB was basic but had everything we needed for a short break. The kitchen was well-stocked with equipment, and the bedroom was comfortable with plenty of storage space. There’s also a lovely little terrace garden, accessed from the second floor overlooking the Hartington cottage rooftops. If I had one complaint, it would be that the lounge isn’t particularly set up for relaxing. The small two seater sofa is uncomfortable and the TV set up at an awkward angle. After a long walk, all I wanted to do was flop on the sofa (after my bath of course) and watch mindless telly until I fell asleep.

We did indeed visit Hartington Farm Shop & Cafe before we left on the Sunday morning. Their full English was everything I expected and more. The perfect end to a lovely but all-to-brief Peak District minibreak in Hartington.

Looking for a place to stay in Hartington?

Planning a Hartington minibreak? Pin for later!